During sewing any garment, a variety of problems can arise, ranging from minor appearance issues to severe damage that can make a garment unusable. While some defects may be negligible in low-cost garments, others can compromise the durability and overall quality of the product.
The most common sewing problems can be classify into three main categories:
- Problems in stitch formation: Issues such as skipped stitches, improper tension, and seam grin which give rise to poor seam appearance and performance.
- Problems of fabric distortion (pucker): Wrinkles or puckers along seams occur due to thread tension, feed issues, or fabric structure, which also give rise to poor seam appearance.
- Fabric damage along the stitch line: Needle damage, needle heat, and incorrect thread choice can weaken or break fabric fibers, potentially ruining the garment.
In this article, I will explain 12 common sewing problems, their causes, and practical solutions to help you achieve professional-quality stitching every time.
12 Common Sewing Problems and Solutions
1. Skipped stitches:
Skipped stitches are caused by the failure of the needle to enter the lower thread loop at the correct time. Using a damaged or blunt needle can also cause skipped stitches.
Solution:
Skipped stitches can be minimised by properly maintaining the stitch-forming mechanism in the sewing machine. Check needle type and replace needles regularly to reduce skipped stitches.
2. All thread tensions should be as light as possible:
All thread tensions should be as light as possible; this will enable the needle thread and the bobbin thread to link in the middle of the fabric plies (Figure 2). Excessive thread tension can also cause skipped stitches or uneven seams.
Solution:
All thread tensions should be as light as possible; this will enable the needle thread and the bobbin thread to link in the middle of the fabric plies. Regularly check thread tension settings to maintain stitch consistency.
3. Improper stitch balance:
Improper stitch balance occurs if the tension is too tight on either the bobbin or needle thread; loops will be seen either on the underside or topside of the seam. When the threads do not link in the middle of the fabric plies, the seam will break when the seam is subjected to strain. Figure 3 shows improperly balanced stitches: the tension on the needle thread is too tight. Using the wrong thread size or fabric type can worsen stitch imbalance.
Solution:
This problem can be resolved by properly balancing the stitch tensions, so that the needle and bobbin threads meet in the middle of the seam. Ensure thread size and fabric compatibility to maintain proper stitch balance.
4. Seam grin:
Seam grin will result when there is insufficient tension on the threads forming the seam and the stitches will open on the face side of the garment when the seam is subjected to strain (see Figure 4). Uneven fabric feed or stretching the fabric while sewing can also contribute to seam grin.
Solution:
To resolve this problem, readjust the sewing machine thread tensions so that a proper stitch balance is achieved. Handle fabric evenly during sewing to prevent seam grin.
5. Inconsistent edge on an Overedge stitch:
An inconsistent edge on an Overedge stitch is when the edge of the fabric either appears to be rolled or ragged inside the stitch. This is caused by the knife in the Overedge machine being blunt or incorrectly positioned in relation to the ’stitch tongue’ on the needle plate to obtain the proper seam width. Incorrect fabric placement can also worsen edge inconsistency.
Solution:
This problem can be resolved by sharpening or correctly positioning the knife in relation to the stitch tongue. Ensure fabric edge is properly aligned before stitching.
6. Pucker:
Pucker is a wrinkled appearance along a seam length. Generally, there appears to be too much fabric and not enough thread in the seam or it appears that the thread is drawing up the fabric. Pucker can be caused by the incorrect seam construction, incorrect needle size, incorrect thread size, poor tension control and poor feed control or by the fabric structure. Pucker may not show itself when the garment is first sewn, but pucker can occur after the garment has been pressed using steam or laundered (Figure 5). Improper handling or stretching of fabric during sewing can also cause pucker.
Solution:
Use correct seam construction, needle and thread size, and balanced tension and feed control. Handle fabric gently and evenly during sewing to minimize pucker.
7. Feed puckering:
Feed puckering appears as a result of the fabric plies in the seam not being aligned properly during the sewing process. The two plies of fabric are not being transported through the machine at the same pace. The lower fabric ply is transported at a faster speed as it is in direct contact with the feed dogs. All Overedge machines have positive top and bottom feed systems, therefore the bottom feed can be adjusted to resolve this problem and improve fabric handling when sewing. Using fabrics of different thickness together can worsen feed puckering.
Solution:
This problem can be resolved by adjusting the bottom feed to align fabric plies during sewing. Check fabric layering and thickness before sewing to ensure smooth feed.
8. Tension puckering:
Tension puckering appears when the threads have been stretched and sewn into the seam. The thread then causes the seam to draw back and pucker. Too much tension has been applied to the threads, thereby causing a stretch in the thread. After sewing, the thread relaxes. When it recovers to its original length, it gathers up the seam. This type of pucker is often referred to as seam shrinkage.
Solution:
This problem can be resolved by reducing thread tension to as light as possible but maintaining a balanced stitch. If the problem continues, consider changing the sewing thread and applying a low-friction lubricant. Avoid overstretching thread while sewing and consider using thread with low elasticity.
9. Yarn displacement or structural jamming:
Yarn displacement or structural jamming is caused by sewing seams with too large a thread size that causes the yarns in the seam to be displaced, giving a puckered appearance. In this case, the presence of the thread in the seam itself introduces distortion and the pucker has nothing to do with the sewing machine. This can occur in very closely and densely woven fabrics, as there is little to no space left between the yarns in either the warp or weft direction of the fabric, making it extremely difficult or impossible to force in another thread in either direction.
Solution:
The problem can be resolved by using a smaller size thread with a higher tenacity, smaller size needle and reducing the number of stitches in the seam. If the pucker occurs whilst using a Lockstitch (301), consider changing the stitch type to the Two Thread Chainstitch (401). The threads in this stitch link on the underside of the fabric and therefore reduce a build-up of threads in the middle of the fabric. If possible, cut the garment on the bias (cross-grain) of the fabric. Ensure thread and needle size are suitable for dense fabrics to avoid structural jamming.
10. Damage from faulty or incorrect needle:
Damage may be caused by a faulty needle or by using the incorrect needle type. Using the incorrect needle type or a damaged needle can result in the needle striking and breaking the yarns in the fabric structure. Needle damage is especially serious in knitted fabrics, as they will ladder if damaged. The damage is often not apparent when first sewn; it only becomes evident when the garment is worn or washed, causing the broken yarn to run back and become visible (Figure 6).
Solution:
Ensure the correct thread size and needle type and size are being used for the fabric. Inspect needles before sewing and replace any damaged or inappropriate needles.
11. Needle heat:
Needle heat occurs as a result of friction between the needle and fabric being sewn. During high-speed sewing, a needle can reach temperatures of up to 400 °C. Natural fabrics can withstand these temperatures for a short time but synthetic fabrics or synthetic coated fabrics will melt: PVC fibers will melt around 100 °C, Polyamide and Polyester soften at 230 °C, Poly Acrylics soften at 280 °C. Overheated needles can soften fibers, thereby weakening them and producing rough seam lines with harsh stitch holes. The melted fibers stick to the needle and eventually clog up the eye of the needle, preventing the thread from passing and then the thread will break. High-speed industrial sewing machines sew at very high speeds from 4000 to 10,000 stitches per minute, causing friction between the needle blade and the fabric. Other factors, such as fabric thickness and finish, fabric color (darker colors are normally worse than lighter colors), needle size and length, needle surface finish and, in particular, using synthetic threads to sew synthetic fabrics, can cause excessive thread breakage and damage to the fabric being sewn when needle heat is generated.
Solution:
The problem can be resolved by putting a lubricant on the thread to help minimize needle heat or using needle coolers or devices that blow compressed air onto the needle during sewing. Use appropriate thread type and avoid prolonged high-speed runs without breaks to reduce needle heat.
12. Seam failure:
Seam failure is where the yarns in the fabric pull out of the seam from the edge. This can occur on fabrics made from continuous filament yarns that are very smooth and have a slippery surface or when a woven fabric is loosely woven. Improper seam construction or narrow seam allowances can increase the risk of seam failure.
Solution:
To reduce this problem, consider using a French seam or lapped felled seam construction or, alternatively, increase the seam width. Ensure proper seam allowance and construction technique to prevent seam failure.
Conclusion
Sewing problems are common phenomena in garment manufacturing, but most of them can be prevented or fixed with the right techniques and tools. By understanding common sewing problems like skipped stitches, puckers, or fabric damage, and knowing how to adjust your machine, thread, or needle, you can make your seams look neat and strong every time. With a little attention and practice, even tricky fabrics and complex seams become much easier to handle. Knowing these sewing problems and solutions reduces frustration and empowers you to keep sewing creatively and with success.
