Introduction
Different aspects of materials manufacturing, design development, and apparel production take several types of standards and specifications. Specifying standards for materials and garment components is important to achieving the desired quality level and performance of a finished product from sampling through bulk production. These standards help keep material choices, garment construction, and fit decisions aligned with the original style. In practice, the technical package becomes the working document that carries these requirements through the production process.
Apparel Manufacturing Specifications
Material Specifications
Material specifications provide performance expectations required for all materials that will be used to complete a garment style. These specifications include:
- Color standard specifications
- Thread specifications
- Fabric, trim, and finding specifications
Clear material specifications help reduce variation and make it easier to match approved samples during production.
Design Specifications
The styling details, design features, and characteristics of an apparel product in relation to aesthetic appeal are known as design specifications. Design specifications assist pattern makers in creating prototypes that maintain the integrity of the designer’s or product developer’s vision for a garment style. In practice, this is where the look of the garment is translated into a form that can be repeated accurately.
Product Specifications
Product specifications provide standards for intrinsic components of a completed product such as:
- Size and fit specifications
- Garment assembly specifications
- Finishing specifications
- Labeling specifications
- Packaging specifications
- Quality and performance specifications
These specifications are the working instructions that keep the garment consistent in construction, appearance, and final presentation.
Technical Package and Tech Pack Contents
These product specification forms are found in a specification package, also known as a technical package (tech pack), which includes information regarding:
- Technical drawings of the front, back, and detail views with callouts
- Grade rules
- Bill of materials for all garment components (materials and findings)
- Construction details
- Packaging and labeling
- Fit history and comments
A well-prepared tech pack reduces confusion because the development team, sample room, and production team can all follow the same information.
Bill of Materials
Listing of all garment component part descriptions including fiber content, placement within the garment, size, width, weight, finish, quantities needed, and colorway information. This list gives a clear record of what is required before cutting and assembly begin.
Callout
Description of a garment detail in a technical sketch to provide further information or explanation of an attribute. It helps explain details that need more clarity than a sketch alone can provide.
Comment
Important notation made on a specification sheet for use in production. Comments are useful for recording decisions that affect development or manufacturing.
Component Sheet
A listing of all elements used to assemble the garment such as findings, interlining, and trim. The lot or style number and location of each component within the garment are delineated to avoid confusion during production. Specifications for each of these components are found on the trim sheet. This keeps similar parts, trims, and findings organized during sourcing and production.
Construction Details
Cutting and assembly instructions for the garment. Construction details include stitch type, stitches per inch (SPI) with +/- tolerances, seam type and finish, hem type, top-stitching details, interlining type and area of garment for attachment, instructions for matching fabrics (such as patterns, plaids, stripes), closure details and method for attachment, and instructions for placement and sewing of labels into the garment. These instructions connect the design sketch to the actual sewing process.
Finishing Specifications
Details regarding the processes for creating the product’s completed appearance, such as:
- Pressing or steaming
- Trimming thread ends
- Wet processing to alter the appearance
Finishing specifications for wet processing may include color standard or abrasion tolerances, equipment settings, and compounds used. Finishing is often where the garment takes on its final look, so these details matter more than they sometimes appear to at first glance.
Fit History
Record of measurements’ modifications during the sampling process as they relate to measurements specified in the spec package. It shows how the garment changed as the fit was improved.
Grade Rules
Instructions for proportionately increasing or decreasing the garment sample size pattern pieces at specific locations by designated amounts to produce all of the sizes within the range for production. This is what helps the approved sample move into a full size run without losing proportion.
Packaging Specifications
Details regarding shipping and merchandise packaging for products. Packaging specifications might include:
- Method of attachment and placement of hangtags
- Instructions for blocking, folding, or hanging a garment
- Packaging materials and sizes
- Number of garments per shipping container
- Labeling of shipping cartons or containers
Packaging instructions help maintain presentation quality and reduce handling problems during shipment and storage.
Product Lead Sheet or Design Sheet
Cover sheet for a technical package that provides introductory information about the garment style for production such as:
- Brand
- Company name and contact information
- Garment style number
- Season and year
- Color offerings/assortment
- Garment images/technical flats
- Information specific to materials used
- Size range
- Stitch and seam types, SPI/SPC, and locations
- Delivery dates and details
Information from the product lead sheet is carried over onto all other sheets that follow in the technical package. This sheet sets the base information for the rest of the tech pack, so every department begins with the same style reference.
Specification Library
Company’s database or paper filing system of specification packages developed for past and present products that can be used for new designs. A good specification library becomes especially useful when a brand revisits a similar style later.
Trim Sheet
Details trim specifications for garment production that is part of a technical package. Depending on the specific component, the following information may be included:
- Fiber content
- Type of material (i.e., buttons, snaps, zippers, etc.)
- Construction
- Size or width
- Quantity in the unit of measure
- Area of garment and method of attachment
- Color standards for manufacturing and matching
- Performance requirements
- Method and specifications for proper adhesion for interlinings
The trim sheet helps keep small but important components from being overlooked during production.
Garment Size Specifications
Written communication provided to a manufacturer regarding product specifications, performance requirements and tolerances, and quality expectations. It is the formal way of telling the manufacturer exactly what the product must meet.
An important aspect of garment design and production is the specification of garment dimensions. Size specifications are accurate standard measurements of a garment that are taken at various measurement points. Anthropometric measurements are those gathered from researching the body dimensions, sizes, and shapes of humans to draw comparisons. ASTM International publishes standard tables of body measurements for men, women, and children based on anthropometry. These tables give brands and manufacturers a common starting point when defining fit.
ASTM International standard size tables are available for brands, manufacturers, and retailers to use or modify for their fit and sizing needs. SizeUSA, developed by [TC]² (which specializes in solutions for improving supply chain management and technology development), is also available for use and is a compilation of anthropometric data gathered by scanning the bodies of 11,000 adults across the United States to determine common body shapes and sizes. Together, these references support more consistent sizing decisions across a size range. Size specifications are included on specification sheets, also referred to as spec sheets. Spec sheets include information regarding:
- Garment style (including description, style number, season, size range, size category, sample size, fabrication, colors, knit stitches, trim, findings, accessories)
- Grading information for all sizes in range
- Technical drawings of the front, back, and detailed views of a garment style
- Scale of technical drawings
- Specific measurement points and garment measurements
A technical designer writes size specifications based on the garment design, fit, manufacturer, or brand size requirements and grade rules, sizes offered, and production needs. This work keeps the approved fit organized so the garment can be repeated across all sizes.
Various Garment Size Specification Terms
These terms are commonly used on spec sheets, in measurement manuals, and during grading discussions.
Measurement Reference Terms
- Center Back (CB): Vertical midpoint of the back of a garment.
- Center Front (CF): Vertical midpoint of the front of a garment.
- Code: Number or combination of numerals and letters to identify the measurement on a spec sheet and technical sketch that corresponds with instructions for measurement found in a company’s measurement manual.
- High Point of Shoulder (HPS): Highest point of the shoulder; where the shoulder and the base of the neck meet.
- Measurement Manual: Guidebook of codes with corresponding instructions for accurately measuring specific areas on a garment.
- Method of Measurement: Brief explanation of how a measurement is taken.
- Point of Measure (POM): Indicates the exact position where a measurement will be taken.
- Side Seam (SS): Portion of a garment where its front and back panels are joined at the side.
Fit, Size Range, and Grading Terms
- Extended Measurement: Dimension of a designated garment area measured by stretching to full capacity.
- Fully Graded Specification: Product specification sheet containing measurement data for all sizes in the range.
- Relaxed Measurement: Dimension of a designated garment area measured without applying tension.
- Size Category: Classification of a size group found in men’s, women’s, or children’s in which size ranges are found.
- Size Range: Assortment of sizes a garment will be manufactured in.
- Sweep: Total bottom edge opening or hem measurement.
- Technical Design: Analysis and evaluation of garment specifications regarding design, pattern development, fit, and production.
- Tolerance: Acceptable amount of deviation from an exact measurement specified in a +/− range.
- Total Measurement (TM): Measurement of the circumference; a point of measurement that includes the front and back measurements of a designated garment area.
Conclusion
Clear apparel specifications bring order to materials, design development, and production. Material, design, and product specifications define what is expected, while the tech pack keeps those expectations organized in one working document. Size specifications and measurement terms help the technical designer and production team stay consistent across the range. When these standards are written clearly, future styles can move from concept to production with fewer surprises and a cleaner handoff.
