Body measurement is very important for achieving a better fit of garments on the human body. Besides, taking proper body measurement is a fundamental skill for every dressmaker. It ensures not only a perfect fit but also improves garment quality, appearance, and customer satisfaction. Therefore, it is important for fashion designers and dressmakers to have a good understanding of human anatomy and the correct methods for taking measurements. Accurate knowledge of body size and shape not only ensures well-fitting designs but also allows for efficient fabric utilization in the cutting room. This process begins with understanding the ‘eight head theory’ of body proportion. This article will explore eight head and ten head theory, importance and various techniques of body measurement for dressmaking.
Body Anatomy
The father of tailoring, Mr. Wampon, drew seven imaginary lines across the body structure for the purpose of easy measurement in tailoring. The complete body structure was lengthwise divided into eight equal parts, which is known as the eight head theory. This theory has become the foundation of all fashion drawing and for understanding the body shape and structure for fashion.
Eight Head Theory
According to this theory, the normal body structure is considered 5′4″ height. This body is divided into 8 parts in which each part is 8″ in length. A development of this theory is the ten head theory, which is used for all fashion drawing. This figure is referred to as fashion model figure. In this system, the body structure is divided into ten equal parts or heads. The bottom part of the body is longer compared to the eight head figure. The ideal height for this theory is taken to be 5′8″. The division of body structure in the eight head principle is shown in Figure 1.
1. Hair to chin: The garments are generally worn on the body through the head and hence hat or cap head measurements should be taken. The right place on the neck is the chin itself. Yoke measurements are taken 1″ below the chin. The head is considered the first portion of the human body and the chin is considered a first imaginary line.
2. Chin to nipple: The upper body garments are prepared according to the size of the chest only. This is the second part and the second imaginary line passes through the nipples and the armscye. This line denotes the bust level.
3. Nipple to navel: The next imaginary line passes through the navel; shoulder to waist is measured up to the navel points. This level is the waist level. But for proper garment fitting, the waist measurement for ladies is taken 1″ above the waist level and for men 1/2” below the line.
4. Navel to pubic organs: This part is most important for lower body garments. The lower body garments are cut based on the hip size. The hip level is usually 3–4″ above this imaginary line. This is the most heavy or fat part of the body. This is also as important as the chest measurements.
5. Pubic organ to mid thigh: This part is important mainly for arm measurements. The fingertips normally end near about this line. The length of the arms is measured as 3 heads.
6. Mid thigh to small: The part below the knee is known as small. The knee level is about 2–3″ above this imaginary line. Length of gowns is taken around this head.
7. Small to ankle: This head is important for full length garments like trousers. These garments usually end here. The calf level is above this head. House coats, nightgowns, etc. end at the calf level.
8. Ankle to feet: The eight heads are imagined on assuming a person standing on the toes. This is the last head and it comprises only the feet. This is necessary for tight fitting leggings and floor-length garments like evening gowns.
Advantages of the Eight Head Theories
- By the knowledge of eight head theory, the observation of the body structure becomes easy.
- It will facilitate drafting and fitting. If there happens to be any fault, then it shall be detected and rectified.
- Knowledge of body structure shall be helpful in taking correct measurement and this will result in correct cutting and the garment shall be stitched properly.
- Work shall be easily and speedily executed.
Ten Head Theory
The ten head figure is considered the fashion figure. This is mostly used for fashion drawing and designing. The division of body structure in the ten head principle is shown in Figure 2.
- Head to chin: Like the eight head figure, the head is the first part. The first imaginary line is at the level of the chin.
- Chin to bust: This is the second and the most significant part of the figure. The second imaginary line is across the bust and the armscye. The shoulder level is in between this part, which is wider than the eight head figure.
- Waist level: In the ten head figure, the waist level is about 2–21/2″, below the third imaginary line.
- The hip level: The hip level is also 2–3″ below the fourth imaginary line. This is also the end of the torso level. The torso of the ten head figure is longer than the eight head figure. This is also a very important level for fashion figures.
- The end of pubic organs: This is the position of the fifth imaginary line. The hand usually ends just below this line.
- Knee level: The knee level is in between the sixth and seventh imaginary line. The sixth line signifies the end of the thigh whereas the seventh line is at the level of the small.
- Calf level: The eighth line signifies the calf level. The lengths of leg are longer in the ten head figure compared to the eight head figure.
- Ankle level: The ankles are at the ninth imaginary line.
- Feet: The last parts of this figure are the feet. Like the eight head figure, this figure too is assumed to be standing on its toes.
Importance of Body Measurement in Dressmaking
Accurate body measurement is a foundational aspect of successful dressmaking, directly impacting the fit, appearance, comfort, and durability of garments. Before creating a garment, a dressmaker must understand the exact dimensions and proportions of the wearer’s body. This ensures:
- Better Fitting Garments: Accurate measurements result in clothes that complement the body’s natural shape.
- Efficient Fabric Utilization: Knowing the exact size reduces fabric waste in the cutting room.
- Balanced and Proportional Designs: Proper measurements help maintain the aesthetic balance of garments.
- Comfort and Ease of Movement: Well-measured clothing provides comfort without restricting body movement.
Body Measurement Techniques
Body measurement values can be examined on an individual basis (e.g. waist only) and on a combined basis (e.g. bust/waist, waist/hip, or bust/waist/hip) to gain insight into typical body dimensions, proportions and shapes.
The following points have to be taken into account while taking body measurements.
- Prior to taking the body measurements, it is advisable to understand the customer’s requirements, concerning the shape, fit, and style of the garment.
- It is important to study the human anatomy carefully and if any variation in body proportion is noticed, it has to be recorded and should be taken into account while taking measurements and pattern making.
- While taking the measurements, the person should stand straight in front of a mirror.
- Body measurements should be taken with tape, without keeping it too tight or loose with the body.
- The measurements should be taken in the appropriate order and with a definite sequence.
- All girth measurements should be taken tightly, since ease allowance is incorporated in the draft.
- After taking all the measurements, they should be rechecked twice.
Taking Body Measurement
Bodice measurements.
The various bodice measurements are shown in Figure 3
1. Bust: Measurement has to be taken about the fullest part of the chest/bust by raising the measuring tape to a level slightly below the shoulder blades at the back.
2. Waist: Measurement has to be taken tightly around the waist with the tape straight.
3. Neck: Measurement has to be taken around the neck, by keeping the tape slightly above the collar front and along the base of the neck at the back.
4. Shoulder: Measurement has to be taken from the neck joint to the arm joint along the middle of the shoulder (A to B in Figure 3).
5. Front waist length: Measurement has to be taken down from the high point shoulder (HPS) to waist line through the fullest part of the bust (A to C Figure 3).
6. Shoulder to bust: Measurement has to be taken down from the HPS to the tip of the bust (A to D in Figure 3).
7. Separation of bust points: Measurement has to be taken between the two bust/chest points (D to E Figure 3).
8. Across back measurement: Measurement has to be taken across the back between armholes about 3″ below the base of the neck (P to Q in Figure 3).
9. Back waist length: Size has to be measured from the base of the neck at the centre back position to the waistline (R to S in the Figure 3).
10. Armscye depth: Measurement has to be taken from the base of the neck at the centre of the back to a point directly below it and in level with the bottom of the arm where it joins the body (R to T in Figure 3).
Sleeve measurements
11. Upper arm circumference: Measurement has to be taken around the fullest part of the arm.
12. Lower arm: For the lower arm, measurement has to be taken around the arm at the desired level corresponding to the lower edge of the sleeve.
13. Elbow circumference: Measurement has to be taken around the arm at the elbow.
14. Wrist: Measurement has to be taken around the wrist.
15. Sleeve length: For short sleeves, the length has to be measured from point B to F. For elbow length sleeve, measurement has to be taken from the top of the arm to the elbow point (B to G in Figure 3). For full length, the elbow has to bend slightly and measurement has to be taken down from the top of the arm to the back of the wrist passing the tape over the elbow point (B to H in Figure 3).
Skirt measurements
16. Waist: Measurement has to be taken tightly around the waist with the tape in a horizontal manner and parallel to the floor.
17. Hip: Measurement has to be taken around the fullest part of the hip horizontally (7–9″ from waist approximately).
18. Waist to hip: Measurement has to be taken from the waist at the center of the back to the fullest part of the hip (S to U in Figure 3).
19. Skirt length: Measurement has to be taken at the center of the back from the waist to length of the skirt as required (S to V in Figure 3).
Conclusion
Accurate body measurements are the foundation of well-fitting, comfortable, and flattering garments. By following these techniques and tips, you can confidently select and adjust patterns, ensuring your dressmaking projects result in clothing that fits beautifully and reflects your personal style.
References
[1] Karthik, T., Ganesan, P., & Gopalakrishnan, D. (2016). Apparel Manufacturing Technology. In CRC Press eBooks. https://doi.org/10.1201/9781315367507
[2] Jahanara Akter. (n.d.). Importance of Body Measurements in Fashion Designing. Fashion2Apparel. https://fashion2apparel.com/importance-of-body-measurements-in-fashion-designing/
[3] Faust, M., & Carrier, S. (2014). Designing apparel for consumers : the impact of body shape and size. http://ci.nii.ac.jp/ncid/BB16908535
[4] Fan, J., Yu, W., & Hunter, L. (2004). Clothing Appearance and Fit: Science and technology.
[5] Gupta, D., & Zakaria, N. (2014). Anthropometry, apparel sizing and design. In Elsevier eBooks. https://doi.org/10.1016/c2013-0-16342-8
