Introduction:
Fabrics are made by assembling yarn or fibers or a combination of both. They are assembled in such a way that due to their inter fiber frictional force, they produce a material that has strength, elongation, flexibility, abrasion resistance and other properties suitable for clothing and other end uses. Weaving and knitting are two primary methods of fabric construction. In this article I will explain comparison between weaving and knitting.
What is Weaving?
Weaving is a process in which two sets of yarns are interlaced to form a fabric. The lengthwise set of yarn is called warp, and the widthwise yarn is called weft. To make fabric, the lengthwise yarn and the widthwise yarn have to be interlaced in such a way that the warp yarns pass under and over the weft yarns in a systematic order. Similarly, the weft passes under and over the warp yarns in a systematic order. Figure 1 show the passage of warp and weft yarn in woven fabric.
Woven fabric is made with these two sets of yarns. There are various types of weaves, i.e., twill, plain, and satin etc. The interlacing of the yarns determines the type of weave on the cloth.
During weaving, the warp yarns are split into two layers which is called a shed. The weft yarn is inserted into the shed and pushed to the point where the warp becomes the cloth. In earlier days, the method employed for the insertion of weft was by means of a stick with a hooked end. The stick was inserted first in one direction and then in the other direction.
In the middle of 18th century, a fly shuttle with a weft package was invented to insert the weft inside the warp shed. The shuttle was thrown through the warp shed from one side and then from the other side. This eliminated the weft insertion by sticks and made a revolution in fabric making. Initially, propelling the shuttle from one side to the other was done manually using a wooden frame called a handloom. After the invention of steam power, the shuttle was propelled mechanically using steam power. This weaving frame was called a power loom. Since the middle of 20th century, attempts have been made to replace the shuttle for weft insertion, and as a result, nowadays shuttleless looms share bulk of fabric production.
What is Knitting?
Fabric is formed in knitting by the interlooping of loops of yarns such that one loop is passed through another loop. Due to the loop structure, knitted fabric does not have dimensional stability, but at the same time, it has more stretch and recovery properties. This is most useful in producing inner garments and formfitting garments. The knitted fabrics have contributed a share of about 30% of the total textile fabrics production. Knitted fabrics are bulkier and softer compared to woven fabric, and they are finding application in outer garments in a large way. Even a single yarn is sufficient to form a knitted fabric in knitting. In earlier days, knitting was done using hand pins, then frame knitting was developed. Nowadays, sophisticated knitting machines have been developed with higher production rates for producing a variety of knitted garments to cater to the needs of modern society. Figure 2 shows the loops of knitted fabric.
Difference / Comparison between Weaving and Knitting:
In knitting, fabric is produced by interlooping one set of yarns, whereas in weaving, fabric is produced by interlacing two sets of yarns. Even with a single yarn knitted fabric can be made. To make a woven fabric two sets of yarns are compulsory. Knitting fabrics are more stretchable than woven fabrics. Knitted fabrics are dimensionally unstable whereas woven fabrics are dimensionally stable. For knitting, yarns having medium strength are sufficient, whereas for weaving, yarns having good strength are necessary, especially for warp.
Comparison between weaving and knitting are given in below table:
| S.No. | Weaving | Knitting |
| 1. | Weaving is the process of creating a fabric through interlacing of yarns. | Knitting is the process of creating a fabric by the interlooping of loops of yarns. |
| 2. | The threads in weaving move perpendicular to one another. | The threads in knitting are parallel to one another. |
| 3. | Weaves have lower stretchability. | Knits have higher stretchability. |
| 4. | Fabric is comparatively more rigid. | Fabric is comparatively less rigid. |
| 5. | Yarn TPI is higher in woven fabric. | Yarn TPI is lower in knitted fabric. |
| 6. | The fabric is thin in weaving. | The fabric becomes thick after knitting. |
| 7. | Fabric is less thicker for same GSM | Fabric is more thicker for same GSM. |
| 8. | Two kinds of threads are used: warp and weft. | Two types of knits: coarse (horizontal loops) and wales (vertical loops). |
| 9. | Lightweight clothes are prepared through weaving. | Thick woolen clothes are prepared through knitting. |
| 10. | The production cost of weaving is high. | The production cost of knitting is low. |
| 11. | Higher capital investment is needed. | Lower capital investment is required. |
| 12. | Less modification is possible in weaving. | Design and fabric are easily modified in knitting. |
| 13. | Fabric construction is compact in weaving. | Fabric construction is loose in knitting. |
| 14. | Weaving is more durable. | Knitting is less durable. |
| 15. | Weaving provides no thermal assistance as the fabric is light. | Knitting offers high thermal assistance due to thicker fabrics. |
| 16. | Sizing of threads is important to protect the weave from damage. | No need for sizing in knitting. |
| 17. | Two sets of yarns are required in weaving. | Only one set of yarn is required in knitting. |
| 18. | Examples: Denim, Canvas, Chambray etc. | Examples: Sweaters, Terry, Dresses, Pique etc. |
References:
- Fabric Manufacturing Technology: Weaving and Knitting by K. Thangamani and S. Sundaresan
- Textile and Clothing Design Technology Edited by Tom Cassidy and Parikshit Goswami
- Fundamentals and Advances in Knitting Technology by Sadhan C. Ray
- Handbook on Fabric Manufacturing: Grey Fabrics: Preparation, Weaving to Marketing by B. Purushothama
