Textile Print Design
A textile print is a design with a pattern repeat and color-way that is applied to a fabric. Textile print design is a huge, creative, and diverse area in the fashion and textile industry. A colorway is the selection of palette colors used in a print for a particular season. Textile prints can be classified into flat and tonal prints. Flat prints contain one or more designs or motifs that possess distinct divisions of color that are clearly defined from the background or ground. The repetition of motif creates the print design. Tonal prints contain motifs that can be hard to distinguish from the background. One motif may blend in with another due to subtle color variations. Examples of tonal prints include batik, tie-dyed, and watercolor designs. An assortment of pattern designs that share a common theme is known as a print collection. Print designs within the collection are independent of each other and are not intended for use together; however, they build a unifying relationship among all of the designs within the line. Coordinated prints are specifically designed to be used together within an ensemble or garment. Color and motif are significant unifying factors when developing print coordinates. The designer creates a master print first and subsequently develops derivative print designs to coordinate with and complement the original design. Derivative designs can contain as little as one motif and as few as two colors from the master print. Additional motifs can be introduced into derivatives as long as all of the print designs are harmonious and coordinate with each other. This article delves into the various types of printing techniques and the styles of designs that define this dynamic field.
Print Repeat Styles
The motif arrangement or layout is the way in which one motif is positioned next to another. A repeat or repeatable tile is the specific arrangement of one or more motifs within an area where no two designs appear in the same way. The repeatable tile is repeated to create a pattern on fabric. Motifs in a repeat arranged in close proximity to each other create a packed or tight layout. The terms open or spaced layout describe the arrangement of a repeat that contains a significant amount of ground between motifs. Open-and-closed layouts contain clusters of motifs in an unbalanced or uneven distribution within the repeat. Coverage defines the area within a repeat that is occupied by motifs. For example, 50 percent coverage would indicate the equal distribution of space between the motifs and the background.
The directional arrangement of motifs within a repeat can affect the design of the fabric and its use. One-way designs contain motifs that are right-side-up and arranged in the same direction (e.g., arrows pointing in the same direction). Two-way designs contain motifs that are arranged in two directions (e.g., arrows pointing down and arrows pointing up). Four-way designs contain motifs arranged in four directions (e.g., arrows pointing up and down and arrows pointing to the left and to the right).
Tossed designs contain motifs arranged in all directions. Tossed designs appear to have a random layout and are not restricted by a specific direction. A pattern repeat is the repetition of the repeatable tile in a specific repeat style. Print repeat styles include straight, drop, slide, and toss arrangements. Print layout styles include border prints, engineered prints, and direct-to-garment prints.
Straight Repeat:
Pattern repeat displayed symmetrically in columns and rows.
Drop Repeat:
Pattern repeat displayed in a diagonal layout where the repeat appears above or below the previous adjacent repeat. A repeat that is dropped 1/2 inch is known as a half-drop.
Slide Repeat:
Pattern repeat displayed in a diagonal layout where the repeat is shifted to the left or right of the adjacent repeat. A repeat that is shifted 2 inch to the right or left is known as a half-slide.
Allover Repeat:
Multidirectional configuration that appears A random.
Border Print:
Incorporates a stripe or border repeat of motifs displayed along one or more edges of the fabric. Border prints can contain solid blocks of color or an arrangement of motifs in addition to the border.
Engineered Print or Placement Print:
A print design that does not repeat within a garment panel and is created to fit specific dimensions; a single motif arrangement. Designers create engineered prints for a specific part of a garment (i.e., the front or back panel of a skirt, the front panel of a blouse, a scarf). Each engineered print is repeated along the yardage of the fabric independent of the others.
Direct-to-Garment Print:
The fabric design is engineered and printed as individual garment pattern pieces. After print processing, the fabric can go straight to cutting.
Different Styles of Textile Print
The motifs used in print repeat designs determine the way a textile print is classified. Realistic prints contain motifs that appear close to or true to life, whereas stylized prints include simplistic, one-dimensional motifs that appear more abstract. Common print categories include conversational, floral, documentary, traditional, textures and weaves, and abstract and geometric designs.
Abstract Prints:
Fabric designs containing motifs of shapes and forms so stylized they are not identifiable objects.
Conversational Prints:
Fabric designs containing motifs of identifiable objects. These prints may contain one motif or a series of related motifs tied to a central theme that tells a story. Hidden conversational prints reduce the overall importance of the individual motifs through their closely arranged allover print layout. Conversational prints can be subcategorized into the following classifications and themes:
Juvenile Designs:
Contain motifs relating to themes that appeal to children, such as-
- Animals
- Holidays or seasonal objects
- Candy
- School
- Children’s activities
- Toys
- Fairy tales
- Vehicles
Adult designs:
Contain motifs relating to themes that appeal to adults, such as-
- Animal prints
- Current events
- Fashion accessories
- Home (e.g., kitchen gadgets, food items, furniture)
- Nautical
- Nostalgic items
- Sports
Floral Prints:
Fabric designs containing motifs of plant life such as flowers, leaves, plants, or trees.
Geometric Prints:
Fabric designs containing lines and curves that create shapes such as circles, cubes, rectangles, spheres, squares, and triangles. Designers may use motifs singly or in groups that overlap or mesh together. Geometric prints can also simulate stripe, plaid, and check woven fabrics.
Texture Prints:
Fabric designs containing ground textural effects to create subtle surface interest. Texture prints can be subcategorized into the following classifications:
Organic Texture Prints:
Contain motifs based on forms found in nature. Examples of textural motifs include-
- Animal and reptile skins and fur
- Pebbles or rock
- Bark
- Sand
- Clouds
- Seashells
- Coral
- Waves
- Feathers
- Wood
- Grasses
Artificial Effects:
Contain irregular motifs that provide texture to the fabric background. These special effects mimic artistic tools. Examples of artificial print effects include-
- Air brush
- Spatter brush
- Mosaic
- Water droplets
- Sponge
Graphic Textures:
Contain simple, stylized geometric shapes that create an overall ground effect.
Traditional Prints:
Fabric designs containing classic motifs that have not changed much over time. Traditional prints can be subcategorized into the following classifications:
a) Calico prints
Contain closely packed floral or geometric motifs that have close coverage.
b) Documentary prints
Contain motifs and colors specific to a culture, ethnic group, historical period, geographic region, or country. These prints may be either reproductions or close interpretations.
c) Foulard prints
Contain small classic motifs, often geometric in shape, in a specific repeat arrangement (such as a straight, drop, or slide) that conveys an elegant conservative style.
d) Little nothing prints
Contain small, simplistic-shaped drop-motifs such as circles, crescents, lines, squares, squiggles, and triangles arranged in an open-spaced tossed-repeat style. Colors of shapes are simplified to one to three colors.
e) Paisley prints
Contain vegetal motifs shaped like droplets inspired by the Indian bodhi tree leaf. These designs are typically very detailed and offered in rich colors.
f) Weave prints
Fabric designs with motifs that simulate weave or knitted structures. Examples of weave prints include simulated-
- Basket weave
- Twill weave
- Crochet knit
- Woven straw
- Lace
Conclusion
Textile print design is a dynamic art form that beautifully blends tradition and technology. From ancient block prints to digital masterpieces, each type and style of textile printing offers endless possibilities for creativity and self-expression. The choice of technique and style depends on the desired effect, production scale, and fabric type, making textile print design a dynamic and ever-evolving field.
References
[1] Bubonia, J. E. (2017). Apparel production terms and processes. https://doi.org/10.5040/9781501315602
[2] Choudhury, A. K. R. (2022). Principles of Textile Printing. CRC Press.
[3] Miles, L. W. C. (2003a). Textile Printing. Amer Assn of Textile.
