What is Apparel Testing?
Apparel testing is the process of evaluating the quality, safety, performance, and compliance of clothing and textile products through various physical and chemical tests. It ensures that apparel meets industry standards, customer expectations, and regulatory requirements.
The performance of any kind of apparel can be characterized through various physical parameters. The reasons of performing such tests are many but in the apparel testing it is intended to obtain some indication of expected performance in use. Interaction of fiber, yarn and fabric properties need to be taken into account in such evaluation. Normally, in the apparel industry, performance tests are based on tensile, tear, bursting and seam properties.
The terms ‘textile’ and ‘apparel’ are inseparable. An apparel is a three- dimensional structure made of numerous components attached in a specific order to provide a suitable shape according to the human body. These components include fabric, trims like buttons and zippers, linings, interfacings, sewing threads, labels, and the like. Apparently, the fabric looks the major component in apparel, but all other components perform their respective important functions in an apparel. Detailed test methods of fibers, yarns and fabrics have already been discussed earlier, but the testing of all these components in an apparel is also very important. The quality of all these components as well as their attachment with each other is assessed through various tests. Apparel testing helps in quality control, safety, compliance, and ensures the performance of an apparel.
Importance of Apparel Testing
Apparel testing is crucial in the textile and garment industry as it ensures the overall quality, performance, and safety of clothing products.
- Ensures consumer safety and satisfaction by delivering high-quality, durable clothing.
- Helps manufacturers and brands maintain compliance with legal and buyer standards (e.g., ISO, ASTM, AATCC).
- Prevents costly issues such as product returns, recalls, and reputational damage.
- Supports consistent product quality, fostering customer loyalty and repeat sales.
Components of an Apparel
An apparel is a set of various components attached in such a fashion that it forms a three- dimensional structure to fit a person’s body. The major component of an apparel is its fabric, which may be made from natural or synthetic fibers and can be woven, knitted, or nonwoven. It is the main factor that decides the comfort, feel, and performance of the apparel. Trims, such as buttons, zippers, ribbons, lace, and appliques, are the elements that can enhance the appearance or functionality of an apparel. Fastenings, such as buttons, zippers, snaps, hooks, and eyelets, hold the apparel together and allow for easy dressing and undressing.
Linings are used to cover the inner side of an apparel, providing added comfort and durability. Interfacings are used to give structure and support to the specific areas of the apparel, such as collars, cuffs, or waistbands. Thread is used to join the various components of the apparel together and may be made from natural or synthetic fibers of different plies, linear densities and thicknesses. Labels are attached to the apparel to provide important information, such as the size, care instructions, country of origin, and other relevant details.
Overall, the combination of these components is critical to the creation of a functional, comfortable, and visually appealing apparel. The selection and use of specific materials and components depend on the intended use and desired properties of the finished product. Figure 1 shows various components and their locations in an apparel.
Different Types of Apparel Testing and Its Assemblies
Seam Slippage or Failure Test
ASTM D 1683 and ISO 13935- 1 are the commonly referred standard methods to test the seam slippage or seam strength of a sewn seamed sample. This method is used to measure the strength of a sewn seam in a woven fabric by applying the force perpendicular to the seam direction. This test is similar to the grab tensile test that has been discussed earlier. One of the objectives of this test is to manipulate the strength of the stitched portion to such a level that the stitch strength does not surpass the strength of a fabric, so that the apparel can be repaired. Using this test, the force at which the displacement of any set of yarns of the woven fabric occurs is analyzed so that the sewing threshold is determined accordingly.
Zipper Strength Test
A zipper is used to join two piece of fabric temporarily, allowing the user to attach or detach the pieces manually by sliding the zipper lock. The strength of a zipper must be sufficient that it does not open due to deformation or tension on the apparel. ASTM D2061 is one of the standard test methods for zipper strength. Many tests, namely, chain and elements strength, stops holding strength, separable unit holding strength, cushioned compression resistance of slider, slider deflection and recovery, twist resistance, torsional resistance, slider- pull pull- off resistance, slider lock holding resistance, and the like, are described in the standards for a complete assessment of zippers. Some tests that are closer to the textiles and apparel applications, instead of structural strength analysis, have been described in the present section.
Zipper elements pull- off and slippage test: When there is a tight- fitting apparel with a zipper attachment, the zipper elements bear forces perpendicular to its length, whilst a parallel force is applied due to the movement of the slider or parallel extension of the fabric. Hence the zipper elements pull- off and a slippage test is done on a UTM. For both the tests, different fixtures are used as shown in Figure 2. The force is applied until failure occurs. The failure may be the pull- off or slippage of the zipper element or deformation or failure of the zipper tape.
Slider lock holding strength: In an apparel, it is important for the slider lock to work correctly and hold the slider at a fixed position especially in jeans and boots with zippers. The lock holding strength is tested by clamping the stringers projected from the slider in the upper and lower jaws of the UTM with the slider in the locked condition, as shown in Figure 3.
The lock must be located midway between the jaws. The load is applied on the zipper stringers and the holding strength is measured.
Tension Strength of Sew- through Buttons
Sew- through buttons are one of the most common temporary joint used in apparel. The buttons come out of their position quite often due to the tension in the apparel. Hence, it is important to test the tension strength of sew- through buttons. ASTM D6644 is one of the standard methods for testing the tension strength of sew- through buttons. Test specimen is prepared by sewing buttons at least 125 mm apart on the base fabric. One button at a time is fixed in the fixture attached to the movable upper jaw of the UTM and the fabric is clamped in the stationary lower jaw as shown in Figure 4.
The force required to remove the button from the fabric is noted as the tension strength of sew-through buttons.
Dimensional Stability
Dimensional stability sometimes becomes a big issue in many apparels. Mechanical forces during machine washing cause the apparel to extend in a particular direction and the deformation becomes stable even after drying. The shape or size of the apparel after deformation not only depends on the fabric characteristics but also on the direction of the seam and stitches with respect to the direction of extension. ISO 3759 and ISO 5077 describe the standard method for the dimensional stability test of the apparel after washing and drying. The spirality of apparels after laundering is described in ISO 16322.
Dimensional Change after Laundering: If the fabric dimensional stability is being tested, then a square fabric specimen of 500 mm × 500 mm size is laid on a flat table, unwrinkled, and marked in three different locations with at least 350 mm distance between each pair of marks, as shown in Figure 5 (A).
The fabric is then laundered and dried. After drying, the distances between the marks are measured and compared with the initial distances.
In the case of apparel, the marking pattern differs with the type of apparel. Usually the marking is done between the joints or seams or where two seams meet. Some examples of marking locations for commonly worn apparel are as follows,
- For T- shirt like apparel, as given in Figure 5 (B), length of neckband (a), length from back centre to the armhole (b), length from armhole to bottom hem of garment (c), length from shoulder seam to bottom hem (d), width of sleeve (e), width from left side seam to the right side seam (f).
- For jacket like apparel, length of neckband, length from armhole to bottom hem of apparel, length from shoulder seam to bottom hem, length from underarm seam to bottom of sleeve, length from back center to the armhole, and width of sleeve are measured.
- For trouser like apparel, the length from the top point to the intersection of the leg seams at the front and back excluding the waistband, the inside leg measurement from the crotch to the bottom of the leg, the width at the waist and bottom of the leg, the width of the leg halfway between the crotch and bottom, and the width of the top of the leg are measured.
- For one piece and swimsuits, the method of marking is used with combined approach of jacket and trouser apparel.
- For skirts, the length is measured from the bottom of the waistband to the bottom hem. And the width is measured at the bottom of waistband and at the bottom of the skirt.
The distance between the marks is measured before and after washing and drying. Results are expressed using the following relationship,
………………………………………xt – x0
Dimensional change (%) = ——————— x 100
………………………………………..x0
Where, xt is the dimension after washing and drying, and x0 is the dimension before any treatment.
Spirality after Laundering: Most of the knitted apparels tend to show spirality when laundered. ISO 16322 is one of the standard methods to test the spirality in apparels. The apparel is laid on a flat surface with the technical face of the fabric facing upwards. Using some tensioning masses, the apparel is straightened. A ruler is placed perpendicular to the course direction of the knitted fabric at the middle third of the apparel width and rotated until the straight edge of the ruler intersects the same wale again at approximately 200 mm away from the hem. A protractor is placed on the straight edge such that its bottom line is parallel to the hem, as shown in Figure 6 (A). Then the wale spirality angle before laundering (α) of the straight edge of ruler with the bottom of the protractor is noted.
After laundering and drying, the apparel is again laid on the table, unwrinkled, and the wale spirality angle (β) is measured in the same ways as was done with the unlaundered apparel, as depicted in Figure 6 (B). The percentage change in the spirality (S) can be measured using the following formula:
…….α –β
S = ————– x 100
………α
Seam Puckering
Seam puckering is a defect in the seam caused by excessive tension in the sewing thread during stitching or after washing. Due to the excessive tension, the sewing thread resists the stretch and recovers the stitched apparel to its original length. Hence the apparel forms curls in the stitch line. These curls are called ‘seam puckering’. AATCC provides the standard method to evaluate the seam smoothness after repeated laundering. According to AATCC 88B, three specimens of 380 × 380 mm dimensions are cut and a seam (single or double) is imparted at the middle of the specimen. The specimen is subjected to five complete washes followed by drying. After drying, the fabric is laid on a table and the standard seams are placed beside the specimen. The seam is compared with the standard and graded accordingly. The seams are graded on a 1 to 5 scale where 5 is the smoothest and 1 is the most puckered seam (Figure 7).
Conclusion
Apparel testing is a critical component in the quality assurance process within the garment industry. By conducting various tests—from physical and chemical to performance and safety—manufacturers ensure that their products meet consumer expectations and international standards. The use of advanced testing assemblies enhances the accuracy and reliability of results, allowing brands to deliver safe, durable, and high-quality garments to the market. As global competition and consumer awareness rise, apparel testing continues to be a vital factor in maintaining trust and excellence in the fashion and textile sector.
References
[1] Das, A. (2024). Testing of textile and fibrous materials. CRC Press.
[2] Das, S. (2020). Quality characterisation of apparel. Woodhead Publishing India in Textile.
[3] Textile and Clothing Design Technology. (2017). In CRC Press eBooks. https://doi.org/10.1201/9781315156163
[4] Ahmad, S., Rasheed, A., Afzal, A., & Ahmad, F. (2017). Advanced textile testing techniques.
[5] Dolez, P., Vermeersch, O., & Izquierdo, V. (2017). Advanced characterization and testing of textiles. Woodhead Publishing.
