What is Pocket in Garment?
A pocket is an opening or slot with a closed end that is usually sewn in or over the garment. Pockets may have a decorative or functional purpose (sometimes pockets serve both purposes). Basically, the pocket is utilized as a depository or as a holding provision for items or hands. A pocket opening should be sufficiently wide and deep to accommodate the hands and to prevent objects from falling out. All types of garments can be designed with pockets. Pockets primarily serve a utility purpose rather than a decoration in men’s garments. In women’s clothing, pockets enhance the aesthetic value drawing attention to the design of the dress. Pockets of varied shapes, sizes, and locations with decorative details such as bias binding, lace, ruffles, tucks, pleats, applique, embroider, etc. can be attached to children’s garments to make them attractive.
Pockets come in all shapes and sizes. Some, such as patch pockets, are external and can be decorative, while others, including front hip pockets, are more discreet and are hidden from view. You can also have a pocket flap that is purely decorative. This can be made from the same fabric as the garment or from a contrasting fabric. Whether casual or tailored, all pockets serve a purpose.
Pockets can be classified into three types:
- Applied pockets – outside pocket
- In-seam pockets
- Set-in pockets – welt, flap and bound or corded pocket
a) Applied pockets/outside pockets: The applied pockets are the pockets that are sewn onto the garment with top stitching. This mainly involves attachment of patch pockets to the exterior/on the surface of the garment.
b) In-seam pocket/structural pockets: In-seam pockets are characterized by their unobtrusive appearance as they remain concealed within the seams of the garment. Lining fabric or lightweight self-fabric is used to make these pockets. For the support of the pocket opening and to seal the lining area, generally the facing is extended. These pockets are well suited for trousers, half pants and skirts.
c) Set-in pockets/inserted pockets: In this type, the pocket is set into the garment through a narrow opening and made to hang inside. It is difficult to correct stitching errors in these pockets. Accurate marking, stitching, cutting and pressing are mandatory to achieve quality construction. These are used mainly on tailored garments wherever neat appearance is required. Set-in pockets are further subdivided into
- Welt pocket
- Flap pocket
- Bound/corded pocket
Selection of Pocket Design:
The most important aspect in selection of pocket design is to ensure that the pocket design blends well with the fabric design, garment design and its components like collar, sleeve, cuff, etc. For example, rectangular shaped pockets cut on crosswise grain and finished with bias edging will go in harmony with striped dresses. The scalloped pocket will be well suited for garments with a scalloped collar.
The designs of pockets are also influenced by factors such as age, sex, shape and personality of the wearer. For girl’s dresses, scalloped and rounded pockets are most preferred. Straight line pockets are more suitable for men’s and boy’s garments. Inconspicuous designs like set-in pocket are used in garments for older women and short women. The pocket designs should be selected such that it is appropriate for the particular style and end-use of the garment. For example, simple straight line pockets are suitable for school uniforms and casual wear garments, whereas concealed pocket styles with decoration trimmings are used in party wear dresses.
Different Types of Pockets in Garments:
The inclusion of a pocket can be for a number of reasons, such as to enable the wearer to carry essentials that they require or simply to create a style feature on the garment. There are many different types of pocket which can be classified into two general categories: a pocket that is sewn onto the garment, such as a patch pocket, or a pocket that is sewn into the garment, such as a slant pocket or a jetted pocket. In this article I will explain common types of pockets are used in garments.
1. Patch Pocket:
A patch pocket is one of the simplest pockets to construct. The size of the pocket should accommodate the hand. Decide on the pocket length and width by measuring the hand size.
The patch pockets can be cut in the desired shape and are fastened to the outside of the garment. Figure 1 illustrates patch pockets on a denim shirt. The patch pocket may be furnished with a flap that holds it shut. Alternatively, the top of the pocket can be trimmed with a shaped band that looks like a working flap. Flaps can be used purely for aesthetic purposes when they are attached without any pocket. Patch pockets are constructed using three layers: the first layer is the pocket itself; a middle layer is an interfacing; and the third layer is a lining matching with the garment lining.
2. In-Seam Pocket:
A pocket in which the opening falls along a seam line of the garment is known as an ‘in-seam pocket’. This type of pocket can be found in pants, skirts, trousers, shorts, kidswear, kurtas and pyjamas. Figure 2 shows the in-seam pocket design.
3. Slash Pocket:
Slash pockets lie inside the garment and the pocket opening is a slash of some type. The slash pocket is subdivided into three types, namely, bound, welt and flap. When each edge of the slash is finished with binding of even width, it is termed a bound pocket. If one end of the pocket is wider, called the welt, and extends over the pocket opening, it becomes a slash pocket. The flap pocket is provided with a flap of extension turned down over the opening.
4. Flapped Pockets:
The side pockets utilize flap pockets, which consist of an extra lined flap of matching fabric to cover the top of the pocket. This flap present over the pocket prevents the contents inside the pocket from getting wet during rain. At other times, the flap can be tucked into the pocket. However, this fact is now often ignored. Nowadays, the flap is left out as it is considered to make a style statement, even during formal events. Figure 4 shows a flapped pocket for an outer coat jacket. In general, any type of pocket in any garment that has an overhanging part is called a ‘flapped pocket’.
5. Shaped Pockets:
This type of pocket is usually found on trousers and skirts. The pocket mouth shape is cut from the front of the garment and the pocket mouth can be straight, slanted or shaped.
6. Besom Pockets:
Besom pockets are nothing but hidden or secretive pockets. These pockets are not easily visible and have only one slash evident on the front of the jacket. Moreover, the edges of the slash have narrow stitched folds or ‘welts’ along the seams, which makes it difficult to distinguish from the garment.
7. Bellows Pockets:
Bellows pockets are sporty pockets. They have folds along the three sewn sides of the pocket, which makes them expandable. These pockets can accommodate bigger objects and were typically designed for hunting jackets. The design of a bellow pocket for an outer coat jacket is illustrated in Figure 7.
8. Ticket Pockets:
Ticket pockets are basically very small pockets, with or without a flap. These pockets are located on the top of the regular right-hand pocket of a jacket. These pockets add to the style and help in convenient usage of the jacket. Ticket pockets are also referred to as ‘change pockets’. Figure 8 a ticket pocket on an outer coat jacket.
9. Front Hip Pockets:
Variation of the in-seam pocket in which the garment front is shaped and faced by the front pocket hag. The inner pocket hag fills in the cutaway portion of the garment front. It is classified in two pattern; continental and western
- Continental: Front hip pocket formed by two angles from waistline to side seam.
- Western: Front hip pocket forms a curve from waistline to side seam.
10. Jetted Pocket:
Jetted, flap and welted pockets are usually associated with tailored garments such as jackets, coats and trousers. These three pockets are manufactured using the same basic construction principles, where the pocket opening or mouth is cut into the garment and the raw edges are subsequently neatened by the following:
- Two additional narrow strips of fabric called jets are used when constructing the jetted pocket.
- One additional band of fabric known as a welt is applied when constructing the welt pocket.
- A jet and an additional shaped piece of fabric known as a flap, which covers the pocket mouth, are applied when constructing the flap pocket.
These pocket types can be located on a garment in a variety of positions, sometimes through darts and seams and at an angle that will facilitate easy access to the pocket for the wearer.
11. Welt Pocket:
A welt pocket is manufactured using similar construction principles to the jetted pocket. The pocket can be positioned at an angle or straight on the garment.
References:
- Dressmaking: The Complete Step by Step Guide to Making Your Own Clothes by Alison Smith
- Apparel Manufacturing Technology by T. Karthik, P. Ganesan, and D. Gopalakrishnan
- Fashion Terms and Styles for Women’s Garments
- Guide to Basic Garment Assembly for the Fashion Industry by Jayne Smith
