Textile finishing is an essential process in the textile industry, aimed at enhancing the appearance, performance, and feel of fabrics. Finishing processes can be mechanical, chemical, or a combination of both performed on textiles, in order to change the properties of a material, to produce desired effects for the intended end use of the product. Mechanical processes that physically change the appearance of the fabric are referred to as dry finishes. When liquid or foam chemicals are applied to fabrics, then dried or cured in order to physically change performance characteristics, they are referred to as wet finishes. Aesthetic finishes change the appearance, hand, or drape of fabrics. Examples of aesthetic finishes include calendaring, flocking, fulling, mercerizing, napping and sueding, plissé, shearing, softening, stiffening, and washing.
Different Types of Textile Finishes
There are numerous types of textile finishes, broadly categorized based on their purpose and method of application. This article will explore the different types of textile finishes in detail.
Calendaring
Mechanical process of ironing or pressing textiles under high-pressure cylinders at high speeds. The surface of the cylinders and rate of speed the fabric is passed through determine the type of surface finish applied. Some fabrics are treated with resins or waxes as part of the process to achieve the desired finish.
Calendaring fabric can give it:
- Embossed surface
- Glazed appearance
- Slight sheen to high luster
- Moiré effect
Flocking
Mechanical process utilizing adhesive to attach tiny fiber particles to the surface of fabric. If fiber particles are given an electrostatic charge, they attach to fabric in an upright position; otherwise, they are adhered in random positions. Flocking fabric gives it + Surface interest to create a pattern or overall raised uniform surface – Surface texture similar to suede or velvet
Fulling
Mechanical process of felting wool in a controlled environment of moisture, heat, and friction. The amount of friction applied determines the level of felting that occurs.
Fulling fabric gives it:
- Improved fabric hand
- Increased fabric density and thickness
- Smooth surface texture
- Improved softness
Mercerizing
Chemical bath of caustic solution applied to tension-controlled fabric. Mercerizing provides aesthetic and functional finish qualities.
Mercerizing fabric results in:
- Enhanced luster
- Increased strength
- Increased affinity for dye penetration
- Improved fabric drape and hand
Napping and Sueding
Mechanical processes used to raise fibers on the surface of fabrics by means of brushing or sanding. In napping, the fabric surface is passed between rotating cylinders with a bristled surface made of fine bent wires. In sueding, the fabric surface is passed over rotating cylinders with an emery surface similar to sand-paper. Some fabrics are sheared after these processes to provide consistency and uniformity to the fabric surface.
Napping and sueding a fabric gives it:
- Brushed surface
- Improved fabric hand
- Improved softness
- Increased insulation properties
Plissé
Process of applying a chemical paste of sodium hydroxide to fabric, causing it to shrink in the areas where paste is present. Plissé processed fabrics have a puckered effect.
Shearing
Mechanical process of passing fabric over cutting blades to trim surface fibers of napped or pile fabrics. Shearing gives consistency and uniformity to fiber lengths on the fabric’s surface.
Softening
Chemical and mechanical processes used to soften fabric and improve drape and hand. Common methods include application of silicone, emulsified oils and waxes, or cationic detergents.
Stiffening
Process of applying a chemical solution of starch or acid to fabric that is then dried or cured. Stiffening a fabric makes it crisper and more rigid.
Washing
Process of mass production laundering with enzymes, stones, or bleach to distress a fabric’s surface. In enzyme washing, cellulase is used to attack the cellulose fibers to weaken them and remove surface fuzz. In stone washing, pumice stones abrade the fabric. In acid washing, pumice stones are wet with an oxidizing chemical of sodium hypochlorite and used in the laundering process to abrade and bleach the fabric. Washing is most widely used on denim products.
Washing a fabric gives it:
- Distressed, faded, or worn appearance
- Improved softness
- Lightened color
Functional Finish
Functional finishes change performance characteristics of fabrics. Examples of functional finishes include antimicro bial, antistatic, crease-resistant, durable press, flame-resistant, insect control, shrinkage control, soil release, water and stain-repellant, and waterproof.
Antimicrobial, Antiseptic, or Antibacterial
Chemical solutions applied to fabrics or incorporated into fibers as they are produced in order to
- Control spread of germs, disease, and reduce risk of infection
- Inhibit growth of bacteria, fungus, mold, and mildew
- Protect against damage and decay
- Protect against dust mites and insects
- Protect against odor
Antistatic
Chemical solutions applied to fabrics or incorporated into fibers as they are produced in order to
- Attract moisture
- Eliminate or reduce static buildup
Crease-Resistant
Chemical resin solutions applied to fabrics in order to reduce wrinkling during wear. Ironing is still required for garments treated with this finish.
Durable Press (Permanent Press or Wrinkle-free)
Chemical treatment of ammonia or resin followed by curing or heat-setting in order for fabrics to resist, remove, or shed wrinkles.
Flame-Resistant
Chemical solutions applied to fabrics followed by curing or drying in order for fabrics to slow the ignition rate of fabric when a flame is introduced and to slow the rate of burning once the material is ignited.
Insect Control (Insect Repellent or Insecticide)
Chemical solutions applied to fabrics typically during the dyeing process to make the fibers unpalatable to insects or larva such as carpet beetles, crickets, cockroaches, moths, silverfish, spiders, and other types of insects.
Shrinkage Control
Mechanical or chemical processes used for controlling fabric shrinkage. Compressive shrink-age is the mechanical process used to finish cellulose-based woven and knitted fabrics. Chemical resins or solutions are applied to fabrics made from hair fiber or some cellulose-based fibers. Manufacturers use heat-setting to control shrinkage in nylon, polyester, and acrylic fabrics.
Soil Release
Chemical resins applied to fabric to increase wetting (absorbency) to facilitate soil release during laundering.
Water and Stain Repellent
Chemical emulsions, solutions, or waxes applied to fabrics to make them resistant to stains or water.
Waterproof
Laminate film coating applied to prevent water from passing through the fabric.
Not all finishing processes produce permanent results. Finishes are categorized as permanent, durable, semi-durable, and temporary.
Permanent Finish
Fabric is subjected to chemical or mechanical treatment in order to retain specified characteristics for the useful life of the garment.
Finishing processes producing permanent finishes include:
- Calendaring
- Shearing
- Fulling
- Stiffening (Acid)
- Mercerizing
- Washing
- Napping and sueding
- Waterproof
- Plissé
Durable Finish
Fabric is subjected to chemical or mechanical treatment in order to retain specified proper-ties or characteristics. The finish is weakened with each cleaning. Toward the end of the useful life of the garment, the finish may be virtually removed.
Finishing processes producing durable finishes include:
- Antimicrobial/antiseptic/antibacterial
- Calendaring
- Durable press/permanent press/wrinkle-free
- Flame-resistant
- Insect control/insect repellent/insecticide
- Soil release
- Water and stain repellent
Semi-Durable Finish
Fabric is subjected to chemical or mechanical treatment in order to retain specified proper-ties or characteristics. The finish is virtually removed after several cleanings. Some semi-durable finishes are renewed when drycleaned or laundered.
Finishing processes producing semi-durable finishes include:
- Antistatic (Fiber)
- Crease-resistant
- Flame-resistant
- Softening
Temporary Finish
Fabric is subjected to chemical or mechanical treatment in order to maintain specified prop-erties or characteristics. The finish is removed after one cleaning.
Finishing processes producing temporary finishes include:
- Antistatic (Fabric)
- Calendaring
- Softening
- Stiffening (Starch)
Conclusion
Textile finishing plays a vital role in determining the final appearance, feel, and functionality of fabrics. Depending on the desired effect, manufacturers can apply mechanical, chemical, or specialty functional finishes enhancing the value and performance of textiles. Understanding these different types of finishes is essential for textile engineers, designers, and manufacturers to meet specific market demands and end-use applications.
You may also like: Chemical Finishes in Textiles: Types and Applications
