Different Types of Textile Weave Structure

What is Weave in Textile?

The weave is a technical design of woven fabric which defines how warp and weft yarns are interlaced with each other in order to produce a woven fabric. All woven fabrics possess a weave structure. Among the parameters of fabric structure the weave is the most important one. There are three main basic weaves, namely plain, twill, and satin, as shown in Figure 1. All the others are derivatives of these basic weaves or their combination. This is the manner in which warp and filling yarns are interlaced at 90-degree angles to each other to form a woven fabric. The method used to interlace the yarns determines the weave structure. Weave always represents the minimum or repeat size of interlacements.

Basic weave structures include:

1. Plain weave
2. Twill weave
3. Satin weave

Fabric width depends on the size of the loom or the manufacturer’s specifications. The number of harnesses determines the construction of woven goods. A harness is the mechanism on a loom that looks like a rectangular frame that holds the heddles, needle-like wires threaded with yarns. The harnesses are raised and lowered to create a path for the shuttle to pass through during the creation of woven material. Two harnesses for plain weave; three or more for twill weave; five to twelve for satin weave; as many as forty for jacquard.

More complex weaves such as the leno weave, pile weave, and double cloth structures create a different type of surface interest than the basic weaves. Woven designs created by dobby, jacquard, clip-spot, or color-and-weave effect patterns also create interest.

In this article I will explain different types of textile weave structures, their features, advantages, and applications.

Different Types of Textile Weave Structure

Plain Weave

A basic weave structure in which filling yarns are passed over and under each warp yarn, alternating each row. Plain-weave fabrics are typically very strong. The structure they employ has the most intersections of warp and weft and so binds the cloth closely together. The plain-weave construction is uniform and is based on a repeat unit of two warp ends (threads) and two weft picks (threads) crossing over and under each other in alternate order. Plain weaves can be balanced or unbalanced.

Balanced: The number of warp and filling yarns are identical in numbers, size, and type.

Unbalanced: The number of warp yarns is different in. size, type, or number from the filling yarns (thicker), giving the fabric a ribbed texture.

Although it is the simplest weave structure, plain weave can be the most difficult cloth to produce without showing any faults. This is because there is no weave pattern as such to disguise any irregularities, so they are immediately noticeable.

Fabrics that utilize a plain weave structure include:

• Batiste
• Gauze
• Bengaline
• Georgette
• Broadcloth
• Gingham
• Burlap
• Madras
• Butcher cloth
• Moiré
• Calico
• Muslin
• Canvas
• Organdy
• Challis
• Organza
• Chambray
• Ottoman
• Cheesecloth
• Percale
• Chiffon
• Plissé
• Chintz
• Pongee
• Crepe
• Poplin
• Crepe de chine
• Ripstop
• Crinoline
• Sailcioth
• Damask
• Shantung
• Dotted
• Swiss
• Sheeting
• Duck
• Taffeta
• Faille
• Tweed
• Flannel (can be constructed – with a plain or twill weave)
• Toile
• Voile

Basket Weave

An unbalanced variation of a plain weave in which two or more yarns in the warp direction are passed over and under with two or more filling yarns, alternating each row.

Basket-weave structures include:

• Hopsack
• Monks cloth
• Oxford cloth

Twill Weave

A basic weave structure in which the filling yarn is carried over two or more warp yarns and then under one or more yarns to the left or right in subsequent rows. Right-hand twill weaves create a diagonal line that extends from the lower left to the upper right. Left-hand twill weaves create a diagonal line that extends from the lower right to the upper left.

A twill cloth is softer to handle than a plain-weave cloth because the yarn intersections are less frequent, making it more flexible and giving better draping qualities.

There are many variations of twill weave and, while all have a distinctive diagonal, they can change appearance depending on the thickness of your warp and weft yarn, the number of shafts you use, and the threading pattern and lifting plan.

1. Even twill: The number of filling yarns passing over and under warp yarns is the same (for example, 3/3).
2. Uneven twill: The number of yarns on the face of the fabric is different from those on the back. Uneven twill fabrics can be warp-faced or weft-faced.
3. Warp-face twill: The warp yarns create the diagonal effect because more of these yarns are on the surface of the fabric (for example, 3/2).
4. Weft-face twill: The filling, or weft, yarns create the diagonal effect because more of these yarns are on the surface of the fabric (for example, 2/3).

Fabrics with a twill-weave structure include:

• Cavalry twill
• Herringbone
• Chino
• Houndstooth
• Denim
• Serge
• Drill
• Sharkskin
• Flannel (can be constructed with a plain or twill weave)
• Whipcord
• Gabardine
• Surah

Satin Weave

Satin and sateen weaves are highly lustrous. The finer the yarn used, the more luxurious the finish. Both types of cloth have a soft handle, are very pliable and, because of the density of threads, the color is more concentrated and eye-popping. A variation of an extremely unbalanced twill weave having four or more yarns float on the surface before passing under one yarn.

1. Warp-face satin weave: The warp yarns float on the surface of the fabric (for example, 4/1 or 5/1).
2. Weft-face satin weave: The filling or weft yarns float on the surface of the fabric (for example, 1/4 or 1/5).

Satin weave structures include:

• Antique satin
• Peau de soie
• Brushed-back satin
• Sateen
• Charmeuse
• Satin
• Crepe-back satin
• Slipper satin
• Duchess satin

Leno Weave

An advanced weave structure in which a pair of warp yarns is twisted back and forth, creating a loop in which the filling yarn is caught and held in place.

Leno weave structures include:

• Grenadine
• Marquisette

This weave structure is not as widely used in apparel fabrics as it is in home textiles for curtains and agrotextiles. The leno weave is used to create chenille yarns that can be woven or knitted into fabric.

Pile Weave

An advanced weave structure created by weaving an additional set of warp or filling yarns into the base (ground) yarns that appear as loops on the surface of the fabric. These loops can remain or be cut.

Fabrics that utilize the pile weave structure include: 

• Corduroy
• Terrycloth
• Velveteen

Double Cloth Weaves

An advanced weave structure created by weaving two fabrics on the same loom, above and below each other, having the two layers interlock by another set of yarns that interlaces both fabrics to attach them together or as one cloth.

Double weave structures include:

• Double cloth
• Melton
• Kersey
• Velvet
• Matelassé

Dobby Weave

An advanced weave structure that creates a geometric pattern in the fabric.

Dobby weave fabrics include:

• Birdseye
• Huckaback
• Piqué (can be constructed using a dobby or jacquard weave)
• Shirting madras
• Waffle cloth

Jacquard Weave

An advanced weave structure that creates a motif or figured pattern in the fabric.

Jacquard weaves include:

• Brocade
• Brocatelle
• Damask
• Piqué (can be constructed using a dobby or jacquard weave)
• Tapestry

Conclusion

Weave structure of a fabric is fundamental in determining its physical properties, appearance, and performance. It is pivotal in defining a fabric’s functionality and aesthetic. Understanding these different textile weave structures not only is essential for selecting the right fabric for a specific application but also enhances creativity in textile and fashion design.

References

[1] Bubonia, J. E. (2017). Apparel production terms and processes. https://doi.org/10.5040/9781501315602

[2] Shenton, J. (2014b). Woven Textile Design. Laurence King Publishing.

[3] Nawab, Y., Hamdani, S. T. A., & Shaker, K. (2017). Structural textile design: Interlacing and Interlooping. CRC Press.

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