In garment manufacturing, fusible interlining plays a vital role in improving the quality, appearance, and durability of clothing. It is widely used in collars, cuffs, waistbands, and plackets to provide shape and stability. Unlike traditional sewn interlining, fusible interlining is bonded to the fabric using heat and pressure, making the process faster, more consistent, and more efficient. In this article I will explain definition, types, properties, conditions and advantages of fusible interlining.
What is Fusible Interlining?
For the purpose of making of garments from fabrics, the jobs of joining of interlining with the various parts of the garments and their processes are very important. Specially, if the interlining is joined by sewing in the shirt’s collar or at the front part of a coat, interlining may be shrinked and puckering may happen along the sewing line. In order to avoid these troubles, the use of alternative interlining of sewn interlining is the fusible interlining.
The interlining which is joined with the main fabric with the help of heat and pressure is called the fusible interlining. The fusible interlining is made by using a light coating of thermoplastic resin on the fabrics. The fabrics which are used for fusible interlining may be woven, knitted, or felted and in these fabrics there may have natural fibers, synthetic fibers, or blends of them. Various types and of various qualities of resins are used as thermoplastic resins.
Placing the fusible interlining properly on the garments parts, when heat and pressure are applied, the thermoplastic resins melt due to heat and due to the pressure, it helps in joining the interlining with the fabric of the garments, and the melted resins act as glue. This system cannot be used for all kinds of garments and of fabrics, but this process is being used everywhere in most of the cases.
Temperature: During the period of fusing the fusible interlining, heat, pressure, and time, these three factors are controlled properly, otherwise fusing is not done properly. During fusing, the temperature should be in such a scale so that resin can melt. If the temperature is less than the requirement, resin does not melt properly, causing the break up of bonding between interlining and the garments easily. If the temperature is higher than the requirement, resin will melt in greater amount and due to the pressure, chances of strike back or of strike through may happen.
Pressure: The machine with which the fusing will be done, during the time of fusing with that machine, it is to be ensured that pressure is applied homogeneously on the interlining and on the garments parts, and also needs to ensure that every time during the fusing, the same amount of pressure is applied otherwise, fusing will be defective. If the amount of pressure is less than the requirement, then the strength of the bond will be weaker. If the amount of pressure is higher than the requirements, then chances of strike back or strike through will happen.
Time: The exact extent of time which is required for the melting of resin in heat, and for joining of the fabric and the interlining by pressure, should be allocated properly. If the time is used for pressure more than the requirement, then strike back or strike through may happen. On the other hand, if the time is used for pressure less than the requirement, then the strength of the bond will be weaker.
The time of heat, pressure, and fusing, these three factors are related with each other. If there is change in any one, changes are also required in other two factors. Specially, if the temperature is less than the requirement, the required strength of the bond is not achieved even by enhancing the other two factors.
Conditions of Fusible Interlining
There are various ways to join the fusible interlining with the main fabrics. Whatever way the fusible interlining is fused, its performance and appearance have to be good and beautiful. For maintaining proper quality and appearance, some conditions are needed to be fulfilled during fusing. Those are discussed below:
- Beauty: The garments which are made using fusible interlining become beautiful to look at. With this beauty, there are involvement of the quality of stiffness, drapping, handling etc. of the parts of the garments where fusing interlining have been used, and which are determined before the production of the garments. Specially, what type of fusible interlining will be used with what type of fabrics, this has to be selected with special care, otherwise expected beauty and benefit will not be obtained.
- Strength: Using the resin bond between the main fabrics of garments and fusing interlining, the job of joining is done. The strength of this resin bond should be of such that interlining is not separated from the fabric during making of the garment, using of the garment, and washing of the garment. Specially, it is necessary to retain the strength of the bond till the normal life time of the garment. Otherwise, if the bond is separated, that places will be seen uneven and as a result, the garment will look bad. This type of problems may happen if there is under fuse or if the selection of the interlining is wrong.
- Proper fusing: Care should be taken so that strike back or strike through does not happen during fusing. If the temperature or pressure is higher during fusing, then melted resin may come out in the front by penetrating the fabric of the garment, which is called strike through. If the melted resin goes downward, penetrating the main fabrics, then it is called strike back. Both strike back and strike through are harmful for the garment and the fusing machine, so these have to be avoided with care.
- Shrinking in heat: Generally, fusing is done at 150 – 170 degree centigrade temperature and some fabrics may shrink at this temperature. It must be in check so that the fabric of the garment does not shrink during fusing, otherwise problem will arise in producing garment and the produced garment will be in shorter size than the expected size.
- Fabric color: Care should be taken so that the color of the place of the garment where fusing will be done is not changed. If the color of the fused parts of the garment is changed, then it will be rejected due to the shade matching problem of the garment.
- Resemblance in external appearance: Specially, due to fusing of piled fabrics, the pile of the fused portion may deviate, because during fusing both temperature and pressure are applied. If the pile deviates due to pressure, then after production of the garment, difference may be seen in appearance between fused and non-fused fabrics. It must be checked so that the resemblance in appearance is not harmed.
- Special quality: Special qualities in fabrics are developed though finishing, care should be taken so that these qualities are not damaged during fusing. For example, during joining of fusable interlining with showerproof fabric, the showerproof quality of the fused portion may be damaged due to temperature.
For fulfilling the above mentioned conditions, it is to be properly determined that what type of interlining is to be used in what type of fabric, and during fusing the temperature, pressure, and the time of fusing have to be controlled properly. In addition to that, sometimes testing is required to check whether fusing is being done properly, because some defects cannot be understood seeing in open eyes.
Types of Fusible Interlining:
Many types of fusible interlining are being used in garments industries. All kinds of fusible interlinings may be classified in various ways, but internationally, mainly based on the classification of the resins, the classification of fusible interlining are used mostly. Based on the qualities and properties of resins, the classification of fusible interlining is discussed below:
1. Polyethylin coated interlining:
In this type of interlining, there is resin as polyethylin coating. The polyethylin coating on the base fabric may be of various amounts. Based on the amount of the polyethylin coating, its qualities may be high or low, this means the greater the amount of coating, after fusing that interlining, the fused part will be hard up to that strength. The garments made using this kind of interlining may be washed by water, but they cannot be dry clean, but if the amount of resins is high, then dry cleaning can be done. Generally, this type of interlining is used in collars of garments.
2. Polypropyin coated interlining:
The quality of this type of interlining is similar to a great extent to the polyethylin coated interlining, but fusing is done at comparatively higher temperature. This type of interlining is used in those garments which are washed by water.
3. Polyamide coated interlining:
Various types of polyamide resins are used in various amounts on the fabrics of this type of interlining. This type of interlining is used in those garments which are done dry cleaning, but it can also be used in those garments which can be water washed below the temperature of 60 degree centigrade, but in this case high temperature fusible interlining has to be used.
4. Polyester coated interlining:
Polyester coating is used as resins in this type of interlining. The difference of the quality of the interlining depends on the amount of polyester coating. This type of interlining can be used in all types of garments, because the interlining is not damages if it is washed by water or if it is dry cleaned. Since this interlining can be used in all kinds of garments, this type of interlining is called standard interlining. The price of this type of interlining is comparatively higher.
5. PVC coated interlining:
The coating of Polyvenile chloride is used in various amounts on the base fabrics of the interlining. This type of interlining can be used in all types of garments, because it is not damaged in water washing or in dry cleaning, this type of interlining is used much, specially in case of making coats.
6. PVA coating interlining:
This type of interlining is made by applying light coating of plasticised Poly Venile Acetate (PVA) on the main fabric of interlining. Generally, this type of interlining is fused in low temperature and light pressure, for this reason this type of interlining is used in leather or in fur. This type of interlining cannot be dry clean, but can be mild water washed. Generally, in garments industry, this type of interlining is not used frequently.
Properties of Fusible Interlining
Previously, discussion has been made on various types of fusible interlining. Various qualities are present there in various types of interlining. The matter of selection of the types of interlining depends on the fabrics of the garments, the types of fusing machine, use of the garments and the properties of the resins. The properties which are essential to be present in any type of fusible interlining, are listed below:
- The fabric of the garment or the color of the fabric should not be damaged in the temperature at which fusing will be done. The highest temperature of fusing should not go beyond 175 degree centigrade.
- The minimum temperature of the fusing should be such that the bond of the fabric and the interlining is not separated during the time of washing the garments or during the time of using it. The lowest temperature of fusing should not go below 110 degree centigrade.
- The bond of the fusible interlining should not be damaged at least in one option of the two: in washing with water or in dry cleaning.
- The desired rigidity and handle after fusing of the interlining should be obtained.
- The color of the interlining should be white or transparent, but it can be in desired color also. There should not be difference in the color of the garment due to the color of the interlining.
- During the fusing of interlining or during the use of the garment, it should not be harmful for health.
You may also like: Difference between Lining and Interlining
Advantages of Fusible Interlining:
The additional benefits that are achievable for using fusible interlining instead of sewn interlining are listed below:
- For joining the fusible interlining with the main fabrics, time used is minimum. As a result, it takes fewer labors and higher output is obtained in lesser time.
- The process of joining of fusible interlining in fusing technique is very easy and for performing this job, no so-called skilled workers are required or no need of giving any special training to the workers for the purpose.
- Consistencies are found in shapes, external beauties, and in the qualities among the garments produced using the fusible interlining. But in garments produced using sewn interlining, these consistencies are not always found.
- The beauty and the quality that are obtained in garments using the fusible interlining are not obtained in garments using the sewn interlining.
- Sometimes the use of fusible interlining works as work aid. For example, in making waist belt, the use of slotted interlining helps the belt making.
- Sufficient quantity of fusible interlining is available in the market for purchase.
Conclusion
Fusible interlining has revolutionized garment manufacturing by improving efficiency, consistency, and product quality. Proper selection of interlining and correct control of temperature, pressure, and time are essential for successful fusing. Whether you are producing formal shirts or fashion wear, choosing the right fusible interlining ensures better performance and customer satisfaction.
