Introduction
Garment production systems determine how garment component parts, materials, and labor are organized in the factory. A production system is the combination of resources and work flow sequencing needed to manufacture finished, saleable garments. Work flow refers to the specific movement of garment component pieces and materials during the production process from the beginning to the end. Work in process or work in progress is the quantity of incomplete products in the course of assembly. Factories must be attentive to materials handling, which is the efficient flow of materials and garment components as they progress through the manufacturing process.
The main production systems used in garment factories are make-through or whole garment production system, progressive bundle system, unit production system, and modular production system.
Garment Production Systems
A production system includes handling of materials, garment component parts, and findings, labor force, production and assembly equipment and machinery, and a logical sequence for movement of materials and garment components during assembly.
1. Make-Through Production System or Whole Garment Production System
A production method where each highly skilled individual is responsible for assembling a garment from start to finish. This system offers great flexibility and is used for producing the highest price, highest quality of small production runs of exclusive apparel items.
Advantages
- Great flexibility
- Used for producing the highest price garments
- Used for producing the highest quality garments
- Suitable for small production runs
- Suitable for exclusive apparel items
Disadvantages
- Each highly skilled individual is responsible for assembling a garment from start to finish
- Depends on highly skilled labor
2. Progressive Bundle System
A production method where garment component parts are bundled according to the sequential order of garment assembly. Factory workers complete the same operation day after day and become highly efficient.
Bundle
Garment component parts grouped together for routing that include pieces for completing a particular operation or portion of a garment. Bundles are manually moved from one workstation to the next. Factories with a product layout (line layout) or a process layout (skill center layout) rely on this method.
The two types of progressive bundle systems are the garment bundle and the job bundle.
- Garment bundle: All garment component parts for one single garment are contained in a bundle and move from one work station to the next.
- Job bundle: Component parts bundled according to two or more consecutive assembly operations. As the various garment components are assembled, they are passed through workstations where their pieces are added to the rest of the garment until it is completed.
Monitoring of the Progressive Bundle System
The progressive bundle system is monitored through bundle tickets, bundle coupons, or smart cards.
- Bundle tickets: Master lists of operations for the bundle, bundle coupons, or identification cards for each assembly operation, routing information, piece rate, and identification regarding style number, size, and shade number.
- Bundle coupons: Factory workers are typically compensated according to how many pieces they complete within a given shift. This payment method is called piece rate. A worker retains a portion of a bundle coupon and turns it in at the end of the day. The employer calculates pay accordingly.
- Smart cards or electronic bundle tickets: Sewing operators swipe cards through a card reader connected to a computer system to electronically monitor the work they complete. This method eliminates individual bundle coupons and paper bundle tickets. These are accompanied by identification cards providing information contained in the bundle ticket.
Advantages
- Factory workers complete the same operation day after day and become highly efficient
- The system can be monitored through bundle tickets
- The system can be monitored through bundle coupons
- The system can be monitored through smart cards
Disadvantages
- Bundles are manually moved from one workstation to the next
- The system depends on repeated handling of component parts
3. Unit Production System
A production method similar to the progressive bundle system; however, the garment component parts for one single garment are contained in a bundle and moved from one work station to the next by transporters or conveyers connected to an overhead power rail system, a track layout supplying electricity and a means for moving garment bundles. A unit production system eliminates the need for manual movement of garment bundles, providing greater efficiency of flow of goods through the plant. Factory workers complete the same operation day after day and become highly efficient. This process is common in factories that use a product layout (line layout) or a process layout (skill center layout).
The unit production system is monitored by a computer system that controls the routing of bundles, monitors work flow, and records operator production for payroll purposes and inventory control.
Direct connection and tandem methods are two layouts for overhead power rail systems to connect to sewing operators. The direct connection method allows for the overhead rail to stop at each sewing operator’s station, whereas the tandem method connects both single and groups of two or three machines. The method selected depends on the types of garments produced, construction details required for each style, equipment, and factory size.
Advantages
- Eliminates the need for manual movement of garment bundles
- Provides greater efficiency of flow of goods through the plant
- Allows computer control of routing
- Allows computer control of work flow
- Allows computer control of operator production for payroll purposes and inventory control
Disadvantages
- Depends on transporters or conveyers connected to an overhead power rail system
- Requires computer monitoring
4. Modular Production System (Modular Manufacturing)
A production method in which teams of individuals work together to complete assembly of a garment. Team members are cross-trained to complete several operations within the group. Employees are compensated as a team rather than as individuals, as it takes all of the members to maintain a consistent work flow and output of completed garments. A modular production system provides flexibility that the other production systems cannot and works well for manufacturing small quantities of a wide variety of garments and styles. Rather than a line style layout, a horseshoe configuration of equipment is common for this type of production system.
Advantages
- Provides flexibility
- Works well for manufacturing small quantities of a wide variety of garments and styles
- Encourages team output
Disadvantages
- Depends on cross-training
- Depends on team coordination
- Requires all of the members to maintain a consistent work flow and output
Conclusion
Garment production systems are designed to organize resources, materials, and work flow in different ways. The make-through system gives strong flexibility for exclusive small runs. The progressive bundle system supports repeated work and efficient operator output, while the unit production system improves movement of goods through the plant with less manual handling. The modular production system offers team flexibility for small quantities and varied styles. The choice of system depends on the garment being made and the kind of production flow the factory wants to maintain.


