How to Take Body Measurements for Clothing

Getting the right fit clothing starts with accurate body measurements. There are many good resources on how to take detailed body measurements for clothing. Before using the measuring tape, it is important to understand a few key measurements and their significance. Here is a simple step-by-step guide to take body measurements for clothing that anyone can follow.

How to Take Body Measurements for Clothing

This diagram shows the key points to measure on a woman’s body for accurate clothing fit.

Where,

1. Upper chest/bust
2. Full bust
3. Operational waist
4. Widest lower body measurement
5. Distance from waist to widest measurement
6. Back waist length
7. Arm length
8. Bust depth
9. Bust span
10. Bicep width
11. Shoulder length
12. Back width
13. Waist to knee
14. Calf width
15. Neck point
16. Shoulder point

Upper Chest / Upper Bust Versus Bust

Men’s and children’s patterns always refer to chest measurements, but women’s patterns list bust. The measurement that should be taken first is the upper body frame, not the bust. There is little relationship between a person’s build and the size of the breasts. In fit, it is build that matters.

This accurate upper body/frame measurement is found by wrapping a measuring tape up high above the breasts, just under the armpits. The measuring tape likely will not be parallel to the floor. If it crosses nicely over the shoulder blades, it will move up from under the armpits a bit over the chest. This measurement captures the bones, muscles, and overall structure independent of breast size.

Use this measurement, which is usually smaller than the “full bust,” when choosing the pattern. Substitute the measurement for upper bust as bust when looking at the size chart on the pattern envelope. Making a good match here for the upper body garment minimizes the overall alteration work needed, often reducing it to adding what is required further down the line.

Waist—Operational Versus Anatomical Waistline

Waistlines are the mirage elements of fit—more of a concept than a place. Where to measure for a waistline is a complex issue, and there is no other place on the human body where measurements vary so much by individual preference.

The Widest Lower Body Measurement (a.k.a. Often but Not Always Your Hips)

To make clothes that allow movement, it is necessary to find the maximum lower body width. Where this is varies. Some are curvier in the side view and flattest straight on. Some get widest just below the navel, and others carry things lower. It doesn’t matter.

What matters is that the widest point is found and measured. Forget about looking for a “hip measurement.” Wrap a measuring tape around the waist and let it out while sliding it down the body. When it needs to be tightened again, that is the widest spot.

Hip / Widest Part Distance from the Waist

Mark where the widest part is found for future reference. Measure how far away it is from the waistline. If width is added to the lower body, make these additions exactly at the point where they are needed most.

Back Waist Length

Unlike width measurements, which are incorporated into patterns plus design and wearing ease, all body length measurements can be compared literally to pattern pieces. Take the back waist measurement by bending the head forward slightly to feel the prominent bone at the back of the neck. Measure from this bone down the spine to the waist. Compare this measurement to the pattern or to the back waist length listed on the pattern envelope as a basis for any necessary bodice length additions or subtractions.

Arm Length

Men’s shirt makers have given this clear attention and sell shirts by sleeve length as well as collar size. Designers of women’s clothes and patterns seem to have passed this one by. To find arm length, measure from the bone felt at the end of the shoulder (the place where a shoulder seam sits) to just covering the wrist bone. When taking this measurement, make sure the arm is relaxed with the elbow naturally bent, the way it will be in a sleeve, and not held stiff and straight down the side.

Bust Depth

Darts and shaped seamlines, such as princess seams, are designed to take fabric in where it is not needed and let it out again where it is. Situating this correctly makes the difference between a well-fitted outfit and one with uneven tension or folds. Knowing the neck point to bust high point measurement is crucial.

1. Identify the spot where the shoulder seam meets the neckline. This is the midline on the top of the shoulder.
2. Locate the “jewel neckline,” which is the standard circular neckline that fits comfortably. This is where the jewel part comes in. Find a simple necklace (or make one yourself out of small paper clips) and put it around the neck. The exact place where the shoulder seam meets the necklace is the neck point.
3. Measure directly down in a straight line from the neck point, where the necklace and shoulder seam intersect, to the nipple. Write it down. This is the “bust depth” measurement.

Bust Span

Measure directly across from nipple to nipple. Write it down. As princess seams are designed to run directly over the bust apex, this is very useful information when altering patterns to fit.

Upper Arm / Bicep Width

Since the usual ease allowed in a sleeve is 1½˝–2˝, a quick comparison between this measurement and the pattern will show if any sleeve-width additions or subtractions are needed.

Shoulder Length

This measurement can vary widely between individuals of similar build, between 4½˝–5¾˝ in most cases. Take this measurement from the edge of the “jewel neckline” to the end of the triangular bone felt at the end of the shoulder when the arm is slightly raised.

Adjust shoulder length at the end of the shoulder where it meets the sleeve seam. Getting shoulder length right is critical to a sleeve that fits and hangs well.

Back Width

This measurement is taken straight across the upper back, from arm crease to arm crease, taking care not to measure under the arm. In addition to naturally broad backs, this measurement also captures the rounded back that can develop from sitting for long periods.

Waist to Knee

This measurement is useful for checking skirt lengths and helpful when sewing pants. Almost all pant profiles, except those straight from the hip, start tapering or flaring at knee level. Lengthening or shortening the leg length by adjusting at the knee, rather than at the hem, allows for changes without altering the pant’s style.

Calf Width

Measure the calf at the widest part. Ensure that the below-the-knee width of any narrow pants made in stretch wovens is no less than this measurement, or at least 2˝ wider when using nonstretch fabrics. Leggings and other two-way knit pants can match or be slightly less than the calf measurement.

In addition to measurable aspects of the figure, it is important to assess the overall structure of the body to achieve a good fit. Here are some areas worth noting:

Shoulder Slope

Shoulder shape plays a significant role in garment fit. A person with square shoulders may notice collars riding up or pull lines across the collarbone. Those with more sloped shoulders often experience the opposite issue—necklines sliding down the arm and vertical folds forming in the upper bodice. Examine shoulder slope visually to determine if it is regular, square, or sloping.

Neck Angle

Extended use of computers or poor posture can create a forward neck curve. If this is present, look for patterns with back neck darts already included, or add them to patterns that do not have them.

Soft Tissue Distribution

Body measurements assume even distribution around the body, which is often not the case. For example, two people can have the same bust measurement but very different proportions in back width or cup size.

Before adjusting any pattern, determine where changes are truly needed. Observe the body from all angles and note where fabric should be shaped for the best fit. Pay attention to dart placement and direction—aiming about ¾˝–1˝ away from the bust, belly, or butt—and eliminate unnecessary darts where they are not useful.

The amount of wearing ease is a matter of preference, but generally 2˝ at the bust, 1+˝ at the waist, and 2˝–3˝ at the hips. Larger figures require more ease; smaller figures, less.

To estimate comfortable wearing ease for a skirt, place a tape measure around the hips and sit down. The difference between sitting and standing measurements is the ideal wearing ease—about 2˝ for firm figures and up to 4˝ for fuller figures.

Design ease refers to extra fabric intentionally added by the designer beyond wearing ease—for example, for pleats or the volume of a swing coat. Negative ease applies to garments cut smaller than body measurements, commonly used in knit fabrics for activewear, swimwear, lingerie, and close-fitting tops.

Tips for Accuracy

1. Keep the measuring tape flat against the skin, not twisted.
2. Always measure in front of a mirror.
3. Write each measurement down right away.
4. Take each measurement twice to be sure it’s accurate.

Conclusion

Taking accurate body measurements is key to making or buying clothes that fit well. It is not complicated just needs a bit of patience and precision. Once you know your measurements, you can choose the right pattern sizes, adjust store-bought clothes, or create your own garments with confidence. Proper body measurements are the foundation of great-fitting clothing.

References

Share This Article!