What is Jigger Dyeing?
Jigger dyeing is a method of fabric dyeing performed on a jigger machine. Jigger dyeing is similar to the process of winch dyeing with a slight variation. The fabric in jigger dyeing is held on rollers at full width rather than in rope form as it is passed through the dyebath. The fabric moves from one roller to the other, ensuring that it gets evenly exposed to the dye. Jigger dyeing is the oldest system of dyeing fabrics in open width.
What is Jigger Dyeing Machine?
A jigger or jig is a dyeing machine in which fabric in open width is transferred repeatedly from one roller to another and passes each time through a dyebath of relatively small volume. Jigger is the most commonly used and oldest dyeing machine for dyeing all kinds of cotton fabric in textile industry. Jigger dyeing machine is more suitable for woven fabric than knitted fabric because jigger exert considerable lengthwise tension on the fabric.
Jigger is suitable for dyeing of woven fabrics, up to boiling temperature without any creasing. They exert considerable lengthwise tension on the fabric and are more suitable for the dyeing of woven than knitted fabrics. Since the fabric is handled in open width, it is very suitable for fabrics which crease when dyed in rope form.
Modern machines such as automatic and jumbo jiggers have full automation in the drive, tension regulation and control, fabric speed and metering, smooth and jerk-less stop and start, counters for number of turns, gradual and noiseless reversal, automatic temperature regulation and control and so forth.
Old jiggers used to have a trough capacity of 200 L and the fabric length processed at a time was 500–1000 m, whereas modern high capacity jiggers have capacities up to 750 L, which can handle around 5000 m of fabric at a time.
Types of Jigger Dyeing Machine:
There are mainly two types of jigger dyeing machine.
- Open jigger dyeing machine or Atmospheric jigger
- Closed jigger dyeing machine or High-temperature jigger
A. Open jigger dyeing machine:
Atmospheric jigs operate at atmospheric temperatures and pressures. These machines are applied to natural fibres. Here, the temperature limit is typically 100°C. This machine consists of V shaped stainless steel vessel. Two rollers are fitted above the vessel called as cloth rollers. These rollers are rotated by power. Out of these two rollers one roller is driven by a motor which is called take up roller and the other roller from which the cloth is delivered is called let off roller. When all the cloth is passed from the let off roller to the take up roller, it is called as one end or one turn. The number of ends or turns depends upon the type of the fabric and also the percentage of the shade.
Initially, a large length of (50 kg) cloth is wound on the let off roller and take up roller is then driven by the power. After one end is taken, the take up becomes let off roller. These backward and forward movements of cloth through the dye liquor absorb more and more dye.
The capacity of the jigger is 100 to 150 gallons. In the modern jigger, automatic devices are fitted along with the timing switch by using reversing will take place automatically.
When dyeing all the dye liquor should not be added at one time. The dye liquor should be added in batch wise, in order to get even shade on the cloth. In the present scenario, closed types of jiggers are used. The main advantage is to prevent heat loss and chemical loses by evaporation. This type of jigger is very important for dyeing vat, Sulphur etc.
B. High-temperature jig or closed jigger:
A high-temperature jig functions in the same way as an atmospheric jig but comes with the addition of a pressure vessel that is designed to function at 130°C. The pressure vessel also helps in having a close control of the dyeing temperature. Typically it is applied for dyeing synthetic fibres.
Dyeing Process with Jigger Dyeing Machine:
The dyeing process depends on the type of jigger, the type of fabric being dyed, the dye group being used and the depth of shade required. Each mill has to prepare its own operating procedure depending on the circumstances.
The dyeing processes involved in jigger dyeing machine are as follows:
- Fabric inlet: After mercerizing batcher is feed into the inlet of Jigger machine, where the fabric is passed through dye bath.
- Dye + chemical padding: Both chemical and color is prepared in different tank according to required
- Washing: Washing is done by using detergent and wetting agent
- Striping: Stripping is done by using hydrose (4 g/L) and caustic (15 g/L)
- Mercerizing: Chemical strength is 30 Baume
- De-finishing: De-finishing is done by using soda (8 g/L) and caustic (10 g/L)
- Bleaching
- The fabric is directly pass through dyebath and then batching on another roller, and again this process is start in opposite direction. This system is continued for three to four times. If shade is match, then fabric will be outlet. If not match, dyeing will be continuing.
- Fabric outlet: If shade is ok, then fabric will be outlet, and it becomes ready for finishing.
Recipe for Jigger Dyeing Machine:
- pH 8
- M:L = 1:10
- Time: 4 h
- Fabric length: 500–1000 yards
- Route temperature: 57°C
Precautions to be Taken for Jigger Dyeing:
Following precautions are needed to be taken while dyeing on a jigger:
- Not winding the fabric slack on the rollers
- Closing of the hoods in case of dyeing vat colors and reactive colors to prevent it from getting oxidized due to atmospheric oxygen
- Wearing safety gadgets such as gloves, aprons and gum shoes while handling chemicals
- Wearing a mask when the chemicals are active reacting with cellulose
- Not storing alkali and acid side by side
- Not to keep the chemical containers open to air
Advantages of Jigger Dyeing Machine:
- The machine applies less mechanical stress to the fabric, preserving its quality.
- The cloth can be dyed in open width form of full width form.
- Chemical and heat loses are less when compared to winch dyeing machine
- Use less water compared to other dyeing machines.
- The material to liquor ratio is 1:3 (or) 1:4 which saves considerable amount of chemical cost and steam cost.
- Suitable for both small and large batches.
- Produces less waste and pollution.
Disadvantages of Jigger Dyeing Machine:
It exerts lot of tension in the warp direction and because of this normally woolen, knitted fabrics, silk etc are not dyed in jigger machine. Jigger dyeing machine is only for woven fabrics.
- Jiggers exert considerable lengthwise tension on the fabric and hence not suitable for the dyeing of knitted or stretchy fabrics
- The swelling and dissolution of size makes the fabric slippery and unstable in roll form
- The low liquor ratio makes washing-off difficult
- There is little mechanical action in a jigger dyeing machine and it is less suitable where vigorous scouring is required before dyeing
- Takes more time compared to other dyeing machines.
- Moiré effects or water marks may arise on some acetate and nylon fabrics because of pressure flattening the structure of the rolled fabric
- Difficult to maintain a consistent temperature throughout the dyeing process.
References:
- Kiron, Mazharul Islam. “Jigger Dyeing Machine: Objectives, Dyeing Process, Advantages and Disadvantages.” https://textilelearner.net/jigger-dyeing-machine-objectives-dyeing-process/
- Textile Dyeing By Dr. N. N. Mahapatra
- Handbook of Value Addition Processes for Fabrics By B. Purushothama
- Handbook of Textile and Industrial Dyeing, Volume 1: Principles, Processes and Types of Dyes Edited by M. Clark