What is Defects in Textile?
Defects are undesirable aspects of a product from the customer’s perspective. If a customer likes a feature of a product, it is termed as a salient feature and if a customer dislikes it, it becomes a defect. Hence, while identifying a defect we need to see it from the perspective of a customer. Therefore, identifying defects requires evaluating the product from the perspective of a customer.
The customers give specifications such as basic denier, number of filaments, crimp properties, nodes per unit length, minimum strength required, minimum elasticity and package dimensions. Anything deviating from the specification shall be rejected as poor quality. These parameters can be set precisely. Apart from the specified requirements, there are a number of unspecified but needed requirements to get good results. These are applicable as norms for all texturised yarns. Normally, the complaints received are less in the specified specification area but are more in the unspecified area. As and when a customer experiences a problem, he shall make a complaint. If no problem is raised he shall not complaint. The unspecified requirements of a customer are much bigger compared with the specified requirements.
A defect can arise due to malfunctioning of any machine part, a wrong selection of raw material, wrong selection of process parameters or lapse in following the standard operating procedures. They can be prevented and/or controlled by supervision and checking and strictly adhering to the established standard operating practices while manufacturing. Some customers mention them as conditions in their specifications so that the producer can take required precautions. These requirements are referenced by individual product specifications or procedures, which may also note exceptions and physical properties.
List of Yarn Package Defects in Spinning
Yarns are available in various forms of packages such as cone (ordinary cone, foster cone, etc.), spool, ordinary cheese, pineapple cheese, ordinary bobbin, flanged bobbin, ball, etc., according to the type of yarn and purpose of the end application. Cone is the most widely used package. The angle of the empty package (cone center) and ultimately the angle of the final package vary in case of cone. Moreover, those packages may be either cross wound or parallel wound.
Yarn package defects are critical issues in the textile industry, affecting the efficiency of downstream processes such as weaving, knitting, and dyeing. The following are some of the examples of yarn package defects as given by some customers in the market in the language used by them:
1. Dirt/grease:
Dirt or grease contamination is not allowed on yarn packages. It is acceptable if the spots can be cleaned off. For dirt on the outside surface air, strip the yarn and make it as waste. For dirt on the ends, clean with sprayer. If the dirt or contamination cannot be removed, the package must be rejected as off-grade material.
2. Wound in waste:
Wound-in waste is strictly prohibited. If it is possible to remove the waste by stripping, the package may be corrected. Otherwise, it should be rejected for rewinding.
3. Damaged/bumped:
Damaged or bumped yarn packages are not acceptable. If minor damage can be corrected by stripping, it should be done; otherwise, the package must be rejected for rewinding.
4. F oil (coning oil) contamination:
Oil contamination, specifically from coning oil (F-oil), should not be present when the yarn is inspected under a black light on the packing table. Unless very slight (not immediately visible) strip to clean if possible. Otherwise reject to off-grade.
5. Broken filaments:
8 maximum allowable for standard package; 10 maximum allowed for large package.
6. Texture color/appearance:
No overly shiny or dull yarn allowed. Dull, bright, dye color, and so on per limit samples.
7. Fluorescent oil:
If applicable, there needs to be even coverage when viewed under ultra violet light.
8. Crossed ends:
Nose end crosses are allowed, unless they appear matted or too numerous to count. Up to two 1 inch crosses on the tail end are allowed or crosses less than ¼ inch from the tube are allowed.
9. Slubs/loops/kinks:
Slubs, neps, loops, and kinks are not allowed in the yarn. Any package with these defects must be rejected outright.
10. Proper wind:
No patterns or bands. No high or falling off edges. No excessive hard/soft packages.
11. Tube defects:
No crushed, nicked or cut tubes, especially on the nose end.
12. Ridges/grooves:
No ridges or grooves greater than 1/8 inch high or deep.
13. Texture:
Yarn should bulk up when stretched several times and relaxed. No end should lack any bulk (raw end). 4 ply through 6 ply may have slight lean ends (end lacks full bulk), otherwise lean ends are not allowed. Also check the tail.
14. Air tacks (entanglement):
Minimum 40 tacks/m for regular air. Low air should have low tacks, also depends on specifications.
15. Twist:
For single-ply yarns only, Z-twist must rotate clockwise when allowed to relax and S-twist rotates counter-clockwise.
16. Proper ply:
Count the number of ends if the yarn is three ply or more. Strip the yarn using compressed air to correct if possible. Also check the tail.
17. Latching:
Filaments or plies that separate when winding off package are not allowed.
18. No-tail:
If there is no tail, pack one large no-tail package per layer. If excess no-tail packages are found then reject to rewind. The minimum tail length is one wrap around the tube. If the tail is too short, take a short length of the yarn and tie it on to the tail. For parallel yarn, small and no-tails are allowed.
19. Multiple tails:
If there are multiple tails, then correct if possible. Otherwise reject to rewind.
20. Tube clearance:
Tube clearance from yarn roll to tail end of tube should be between 10 and 15 cm maximum (5/8 inch nominal target.)
21. Oversize or small package:
Check suspect packages with appropriate gauge, scale, diameter tape or balance. Do not put excessive minimum size packages in one case. See specific product specification for other special sizes and weights. Allow one small layer.
22. Packaging:
Yarn packages are bagged with high-density vented poly bags and packed into box, tail end down, so there is as little movement as possible. The packages are not forced into the box. The box goes on conveyor to scale open with flaps taped down and inspector card placed in one of the tubes on the top.
23. Weighing:
Yarn is weighed as per agreed procedure (with or without allowance for moisture regain or finish). The case is weighed to determine gross weight. The net weight is calculated based on the number of the tubes and standard tare weight of all the packaging materials.
24. Case labeling:
Cases are labeled and individually numbered with computer transfer printed, stuck on three places. In addition, each case has tube label and shipping label. The labels have an important warning; ‘If the Lot or Merge number on the container differs from previous shipments, use separate unless your test prove this unnecessary’.
Conclusion
Ensuring yarn quality requires strict inspection of yarn package defects such as dirt, grease, broken filaments, improper winding, and incorrect ply. Structural flaws like tube damage, ridges, and slubs must be eliminated to maintain consistency. Proper weighing, packaging, and labeling are essential for handling and traceability. Any deviation from standards should be corrected through stripping, rewinding, or rejection. By adhering to rigorous quality control measures, manufacturers can enhance product reliability, minimize defects, and meet customer requirements. A well-defined process ensures high-quality yarn, improving efficiency and performance while reducing waste and production issues.
References:
[1] Sreenivasamurthy, H. V., & Purushothama, B. (2025). Texturising: Defects, Causes, Effects, Remedies and Prevention through Quality Management. CRC Press.
[2] Ray, S. C. (2012). Fundamentals and advances in knitting technology. In Woodhead Publishing Limited eBooks. https://doi.org/10.1533/9780857095558
[3] Purushothama, B. (2016a). Handbook on cotton spinning industry. CRC Press.
[4] Kiron, M. I. (2021a, May 24). Classification of yarn faults and its removal. Textile Learner. https://textilelearner.net/yarn-faults-and-remedies/
