Technology in Apparel Manufacturing
Technology has revolutionised the manufacturing processes in virtually all the industries. Apparel industry is no exception to this global phenomenon. Besides, apparel industry is one of the largest and most dynamic sectors in the world, has witnessed a dramatic transformation over the past decades. Bold innovations like automation, CAD/CAM systems, and robotics have greatly influenced modern garment production. Major apparel producing nations are attempting to use modern technology for improving productivity and quality to retain their competitive edge. After the invention of sewing machine in 1847, die garment technology has witnessed far-reaching changes in major manufacturing processes of presewing, sewing or post sewing operations. A broad appreciation of apparel technology shall help readers in a better understanding of die discussion on productivity in apparel manufacturing and the factors associated with productivity.
Apparel industry uses endless varieties of fabrics and other raw materials to be converted in various types of garments. All these variations create a need for specialised machines or modifications in the existing machines. This poses a challenge to machinery developers and every year more and more new machines are being introduced for specific jobs, which are easy to operate, give better flexibility and improve productivity while assuring consistent product quality. Integration of smart sensors and AI-controlled machinery allows better monitoring of quality in real-time. The technology for garment Industry can be classified in three main areas namely: pre-sewing operations, sewing operations and post sewing operations. Broad overview of the role of technology in important areas of apparel manufacturing is provided hereafter.
In this article, I will explore at how technology is revolutionizing apparel manufacturing.
Pattern Making, Grading and Marker Making
Pattern making and grading is a very vital function in prototype development. With the advent of Pattern Design Systems, this highly skilldependent and manual task has been revolutionised. Now patternmakers can develop patterns directly on CAD, instantly grade dimensions and develop markers to estimate fabric consumption. Advanced CAD systems also allow 3D virtual garment simulation, reducing errors before actual production.
Spreading
Traditionally, spreading of fabrics is one of the most time consuming manual processes and tends to control the capacity of cutting section. New generation high speed fabric spreading machines equipped to handle variety of fabrics are fitted with features like positive feed, electronic edge sensors, roll loading device etc. These can improve die quality and productivity of die spreading process. Some modern spreaders also include automatic tension control, which ensures uniform fabric layers and reduces defects.
Cutting
Computer controlled cutting machines are gaining popularity in die apparel industry. In this case, cutting machine uses cut data prepared by CAD system, the fabric lay is compressed using vacuum and computer controlled knife cuts the fabric at a high degree of accuracy and speed. One computerised cutter can support multiple spreading machines. These machines can cut up to 13 cm high compressed fabric lay. Low ply cutters have been recently introduced to support ‘mass customization’ orders. Laser and ultrasonic cutting technologies are also emerging for precision cutting of complex or delicate fabrics.
Fusing
Fusing is a process used for bonding die interlining with apparel fabrics. The process is controlled by three variables: pressure, time and temperature. Modern fusing machines offer accurate control of these parameters for achieving the desired fusing results. New eco-friendly fusing adhesives are reducing energy consumption and improving environmental compliance.
Sewing Operations
Apparel industry uses varied types of materials starting from coarse and rough denim and rigid canvas to fine chiffon and elastomeric fabrics like LYCRA®. Due to extreme variations in properties of the materials to be sewn, die same machine cannot be used for sewing all these materials.
‘Lock stitch’ sewing machines are most versatile and are widely used in apparel industry. The stitch produced by this machine is reversible (that is, the appearance on top as well as bottom of seam is same) and strong. But, Lock Stitch is not stretchable. This limitation is removed by Chain Stitch. All other stitches, apart from lock stitch, are variations of chain stitch. Automated chain stitch machines with programmable stitch patterns are now used for decorative stitching and specialized designs.
The basic single needle sewing machines are versatile, but they need highly skilled tailors to stitch die garments. With the objective of reducing the dependence of high skills and improve consistency of sewing, modern sewing machines are equipped with additional features like automatic thread trimmers, needle positioners and pre-set backtack. There has been a significant development in the area of sewing needles as well. Leaders in sewing machine needles Groz Beckett, offer about 400 types of specialised needles for various sewing operations. Smart needles and thread sensors now help detect breakages early, reducing downtime.
There are machines designed for performing highly specialised jobs. Sewing activity is just one part of these machines, die additional features involve folders, stackers, feeding devices, pneumatic controls and much more. A few of the commonly used workstations are welt pocket sewing, CNC pocket setters, automatic button sewing on shirtfronts etc. Since early 1990’s the concept ’stand up and sew’ has got acceptance in Europe and USA for sewing ‘quick response’ orders in a team working environment.
The actual needle time of operators in apparel sewing units tend to be about only 20% of the total time. Substantial amount of their non-sewing time is spent on material handling. To reduce the time spent on handling material in apparel factories, electronically controlled material handling systems are finding their way in sewing rooms world-wide. These systems also provide online productivity performance data and help in optimal utilisation of resources. Integration with production management software allows real-time tracking of efficiency and order completion.
Post-Sewing (pressing & finishing) Operations
Steam, pressure and vacuum are three factors required for achieving better results in pressing apparel products. Steam irons and vacuum bucks of various shapes are being used extensively by the industry for several years. Microprocessor controls are being used to allow for several pre-set combinations of time, temperature, pressure and steam, in die equipment like shoulder press, collar press and jacket front press etc. used for men’s and women’s tailored clothing. Recent innovations include automated finishing lines that reduce labor intensity and maintain consistent fabric appearance across batches.
Use of Information Technology in Apparel Industry
The advent of Information Technology revolution has transformed the life of mankind. Virtually all industries have witnessed drastic changes in their working and efficiency. Apparel industry is no exception to this worldwide phenomenon. Apparel industry strives on its ability to supply innovative fashion products to consumer at the right time and at the right price with the right quality. The main impact of Information Technology on apparel industry has been in the area of reduction of lead time drastically. Today, a customer can log on to a fashion store website and electronically order a custom designed apparel product which can be received by her/him in less than a week’s time, in some cases even in 3 days.
There are dedicated software solutions available for different specialised functions carried out in the apparel industry. These start from CAD systems for fabric design, embroidery design, creation of story boards for design collections and go up to putting up a virtual fashion show on computer where an electronic mannequin wears new creations and walks down the ramp. ‘3D Body Scanning’ has propelled a new trend of ‘mass customised’ apparel, where body measurements of an individual customer are captured by a 3D body scanner, the data generated is then sent to a pattern design software and subsequently to a computerised cutter for cutting a customised garment. These cut components are stitched, finished and delivered to the customer Just-in-time. Figure 1 gives an overview of IT application in today’s apparel industry. On production planning side, there are solutions like production simulation, labour costing based on methods, cut order planning and material movement on production floor. Tools like interactive training programmes on sewing machine maintenance have brought down the training time substantially. The ‘point of sales’ system help retailer track the sale of particular Stock Keeping Unit (SKU) in various retail outlets. Integration of retailing systems with the leading manufacturers help them make suitable changes in production plan to take care of the demand fluctuation in the marketplace. The solutions on Enterprise Resource Planning and Supply Chain Management are addressing larger areas at extended enterprise level.
Conclusion
Technology is reshaping apparel manufacturing by boosting efficiency, cutting waste, and enabling customization. By integrating automation, AI, and advanced machinery, manufacturers can produce high-quality garments efficiently while meeting the demands of a global market. Embracing these innovations is no longer optional—it is essential for staying competitive in today’s fast-paced apparel industry.
