Fabrics are materials made by weaving, knitting, or bonding fibers together. Different fabrics have different looks, feels, and uses. Types of fabric can be broadly categorized based on the fiber source and the way the fabric is constructed. Knowing the types of fabric is important for textile engineers, designers, and anyone working in textile and garment industry.
Different Types of Fabric: Properties, Uses, and Applications in Textiles
Twill Fabric:
Twills are fabrics in which the cross threads jump over two or more lengthwise threads in staggered patterns, creating tiny diagonal ridges and a strong fabric. Denims and gabardine are made this way. Twills most often have a discernable right and wrong side. On the diagonal, they drape fairly well, if not gather. They also bounce back reliably from wrinkles.
Satin-Weave Fabric:
Satin-weave fabrics can be made of any fiber, even cotton, which is called sateen. All satin weaves have some shine because crosswise threads float over a number of the vertical threads and are thus able to catch the light. Be aware, however, that the floats are vulnerable to picking and snags. Definitely smooth your rough gardening hands before you work with satins.
Nap Weave Fabric:
Nap weaves are easy to identify. Corduroy, velvet, velveteen, and terry are all wovens with one napped surface. The nap of all these fabrics, particularly of corduroy and velvet, has a definite direction, like the fur on a cat or dog. Each direction has a specific shade, too. A pile that runs up the body will always be a richer color than one that runs down. As a result, you must lay out all pattern pieces in the same direction so that the color is consistent throughout the garment. Look for the “with nap” yardage requirements and layout advice.
Single Knit Fabric:
Single knits, often labeled as jersey, have a very clear right and wrong side—think of the knit versus purl sides of stockinette-stitch knitting. Single knits curl to the right side and don’t have quite the bounce-back (recovery) of double- or rib knits. Garments with draping or cowl necks as well as undergarments frequently call for single knits / jerseys. These fabrics are often knit on giant circular looms, and then the tubes are cut open to make flat yardage. These cut edges frequently are sealed with glue dots you might notice.
Ribbing Knit Fabric:
Ribbing knits are distinctive and easily recognizable. They are made of different combinations of alternating knit and purl stitches and look pretty much the same on both sides. Ribbings are used mainly in closures around necklines and wrists and along the bottom of garments, much like ribbings are used in hand knitting.
Interlock Fabric:
Interlocks are actually very fine rib fabrics, with two smooth, identical sides and have more weight than single knits. If single knits are used for T-shirt type tops, interlocks are the knit fabric of choice for dresses and more structured pants and tops.
Double-Knits Fabric:
Double-knits are made with two interlocking fibers, much like double hand knitting. Double-knit is thick, stable, recovers well (bounces back when stretched), and has the body for structured and almost tailored knit garments. It does not usually have a right or wrong side. Ponte and scuba knit are double-knit fabrics.
Denim:
Denim is a hard wearing cotton twill fabric, traditionally woven with indigo dyed warp and white filling yarns. It is one of the most popular fabric types. Denim is widely used for jeans, jackets, skirts, and workwear, and comes in various weights and finishes, including stretch denim, washed, or distressed styles.
Gabardine:
Gabardine is sometimes also referred to as gab. This fabric is a classic—a fine, closely woven twill. Gabardine can be made of wool, blends, or synthetics, if for uniforms. Good wool gab presses well with steam and pressing tools, such as a tailor’s clapper. It takes topstitching very well. Because of its close weave and smooth, tight finish, some classic all-weather coats are made with gabardine.
Georgette:
Georgette can be thought of as a heavier version of chiffon with a slightly textured surface. Georgettes can be made of synthetics, which are slippery, or silk, which has a drier hand that sticks to itself a bit, a real help at the machine. This fabric definitely calls for the smallest machine needle, thin silk or cotton thread, and more nerves to sew. It is also one of the frequent used fabric types.
Organza and organdy:
Organza and organdy are much like flannelette and flannel—these two terms seem interchangeable but they are not. Organdy is made of cotton and is thin, with a crisp hand, and often with a finish applied to make it stiffer. Good-quality organdies are used as sew-in interfacing, and this finish is permanent. In less-expensive organdy interfacing, this stiffening may vanish in the wash—one good reason to always pretreat all fabrics, even interfacings. Organza is the upscale version of organdy and is made from synthetics or silk. Silk organza is a wonderful fabric. It has the combination of glamour with a wide assortment of great uses in the sewing room as well. Silk organza is used as a see-through pressing cloth, to underline loose weaves for stability without body, and as a sew-in interfacing. It is lint-free, making it suitable for jelly bags for canning.
Ottoman:
Ottoman is a kind of rib fabric with the ribs running, very dominantly crosswise. Traditionally this was a woven fabric often used in evening coats and purses, but ottoman knits are more ordinary now. Any double-knit can be used when ottoman is called for.
Bengaline:
Traditionally, Bengaline was a tightly woven fabric featuring a strong crosswise thread. More recently it often refers to a stretch woven fabric, usually in various combinations of polyester, rayon, or nylon and viscose (a kind of rayon), and an elastic fiber such as spandex. Bengaline stretch wovens, unlike other stretch wovens and knits for that matter, are stretchy along the length—not along the width, like knits—so must be laid out with the “straight-of-grain” lines running perpendicular to the selvage edge. As with other forms of stretch fabric, woven or knit, it is important to maintain the greatest stretch around the body.
Challis:
Challis is another descriptor for a soft flowing fabric. Often associated with rayon or wool, typically challis is surface printed, usually with something floral or a paisley.
China silk:
China silk is a plain-weave thin silk. It has a smooth texture, soft hand, and subtle natural sheen. It is famous for its elegance and breathability, it’s commonly used in linings, blouses, scarves, and delicate garments. If ordered online for garments, many china silks are used only for lining and might be too lightweight for garment construction.
Crepe de chine:
Any lightweight fabric with a drapey hand can be used in a pattern that calls for crepe de chine. It is soft, graceful, and drapes beautifully. The surface comes from twisted weft yarns. Commonly used for blouses, dresses, scarves, and evening dresses due to its elegant flow and matte sheen.
Cloque:
Cloque is a term sometimes seen on the backs of pattern envelopes for structured knit tops or dresses. The term cloque can refer to either a knit or woven fabric with a distinctive pebbly appearance. When this is a fabric requirement, use a fabric with body and some bounce, often a double-knit.
Dupioni:
Dupioni is an iconic dressy fabric. If it weren’t for silk dupioni, the mothers-of-the-grooms in this world would all be naked. Silk dupioni is a plain weave, crisp, heavy silk with definite uneven weight threads, often iridescent, making it more exotic than similar taffeta. Dupioni is easy to sew and presses well. However, it is not suited to a lot of easing in, which can make princess seams and close set-in sleeves a challenge. A similar lighter version of this fabric is shantung, which unlike dupioni is often now woven from synthetic fibers.
Faille:
A faille is a kind of lightweight woven rib with a soft flowing hand. It is made from silk, polyester, or cotton. Faille is used in tailored dresses, jackets, handbags, and upholstery.
Flannel and flannelette:
Flannel and flannelette are synonyms for cozy. Flannel is fuzzy on both sides and can be made from cotton, wool, or blends in a plain or twill weave. Flannelette is a lighter, cheaper, and made by brushing cotton fabric to create a fuzzy surface that mimics wool flannel’s softness. Common in bedsheets and sleepwear.
Guipure:
Guipure is a heavy lace distinguished by the heavy cord around and as connection between the motifs. It is called for in fitted lace bodices or lace sheath dresses to preserve the lines that would be lost if made in a lighter-weight, mesh-based lace.
Lawn:
Lawn is an old-school fabric that appears to be making a comeback after a long retirement. It is a lightweight, plain-weave fabric made from cotton or linen. Lawns are thin fabrics, tightly woven with a smooth silky finish that resists wrinkles. Liberty of London made cotton lawns famous. Lawn is breathable, soft, and drapes well, making it ideal for summer clothing, dresses, shirts, handkerchiefs, and light curtains.
Microfiber:
Microfiber can be thought of the synthetic world’s response to silk and in some ways takes that even further. In the natural world, silk is the thinnest fiber with an individual strand of one denier. A microfiber is any human-made fabric with filaments finer than even this. The actual type of synthetic fiber (polyester or nylon, for example) can vary, as can the mechanical production, knitted or woven. Many suede-like fabrics are microfibers, known for durability and stain resistance. Microfibers can be tricky to sew due to the typically high thread count. To counter this, use a special microtex needle and try to avoid styles with too many seams and construction details.
Muslin:
Muslin is a fabric that has also become the name of a garment, as when a sewist talks about “making a muslin.” In this case the muslin is understood to be a fitting garment made out a stable, plain-woven, unbleached cotton fabric. Muslin is widely available and sometimes comes in superwide widths, which can be handy when rehearsing patterns or fine-tuning the fit.
Peau de soie:
Peau de Soie is a heavy satin with a matte sheen, originally made of silk but these days more often made of synthetics and therefore appropriately disguised with a French name. It is commonly used in evening gowns, bridal wear, formal dresses, and high-end linings.
Percale:
Percale sounds like a bed sheet, but it is really a plain-weave, highthread-count cotton fabric distinguished by the same number of threads per inch up and down, ensuring consistent strength. (Fabrics are interesting aren’t they?)
Pique:
Pique is a textured fabric with a dominant lengthwise rib in either a cotton or blend. Cotton pique shift dresses have both the comfort and breathability of all cottons but enough structure to hold the most retro A-line shape. Pique is used in polo shirts, dresses, and A-line skirts where body and shape are desired.
Silk noil:
Silk noil is actually silk but doesn’t look it. This fabric is characterized by a fairly rough surface and is made of the waste materials left over from finer silks. With a dry and pleasant hand, silk noil is easy to sew—needles pierce it well—and has warmth and breathability. Although it drapes and takes dye easily, silk noil can sag over time as the fibers do not have a continuous structure. It is suitable for dresses, blouses, scarves, and casual wear.
Seersucker:
Seersucker is another of my all-time favorite fabrics. Made of cotton or cotton blends, the distinctive rippled stripes of seersuckers lift the fabric away from the body to allow airflow. Popular for summer suits and shirts for men, no other fabric is cooler, with only linen a close second. Seersucker can be used to make crib sheets for summer babies and for nightgowns.
Stable knit:
Stable knit is a contradiction in terms—there is always a bit of wariness when reading “woven or stable knit.” Patterns that call for stable knits, in experience, tend to produce knit garments with too much ease. Use a knits-only pattern for knits, even the stable ones, and stick to wovens for any pattern that says “woven fabrics or stable knits.”
Tulle:
Tulle is much softer than regular netting, can be gathered to make comfortable sleeve heads in puffed formal sleeves, and used as an underlining to add some body with little bulk. A full skirt underlined in tulle will really stand away from the body with great prom dress puffiness.
Viyella:
Viyella is a soft, lightweight 50/50 wool and cotton fine twill shirting fabric that dads used to wear, and like dads, improves with age.
Conclusion
Different types of fabric have different qualities and uses. Choosing the right fabric is important for comfort, durability, and style. Understanding the different fabric types—woven, knitted, and non-woven—helps engineers and designers choose the right material for specific uses, balancing factors like durability, elasticity, comfort, and appearance.
