Fabric spreading is a crucial step in garment manufacturing. It is more than just laying fabric. Before cutting, fabric must be laid properly on the cutting table in multiple layers according to the marker length. The way fabric is laid and the type of fabric package used directly affect cutting accuracy, fabric wastage, production speed and final garment quality. In this article I will explore the key types of fabric lay and packages used in spreading operations.
Types of Fabric Lays:
The types of fabric lays can be done mainly in two methods. For example, based on the construction of the lay and based on the direction of spreading of fabrics in lays. About the classifications of the types of fabric lays of both the methods are discussed below:
a) Based on the construction:
Based on the construction, fabric lays may be of two types:
- Straight lay
- Stepped lay
1. Straight lay:
In this type of lay, each ply of the fabric is spread in full length as per the length of the marker. The type of straight lay is used mostly and its example is given in the figure: 4/1.
2. Stepped lay:
In this type of lay, each ply of the fabric is not spread in full length, that means they are arranged in steps. Different type of marker is required for stepped lay. This type of lay is rarely used, because fabric wastage is high and making of high is to some extent complicated. Example of stepped lay is given in figure: 4/2.
b) Based on the direction of spreading:
During the time of making of fabric lay by spreading the fabric, fabric lay is classified in three types based on the direction of spreading of fabrics. The types are mentioned and discussed below:
- All face up/down
- Face to face
- Zig-Zag
1. All face up/down:
This type of lay is suitable for wide and open fabric. The face side of each ply of the fabric is placed either on the top side or on the bottom side. But the direction of fabric spreading is always in the same direction. After spreading of each ply, the fabric end is cut and again the fabric is spread from the same end. For this reason the spreading machine needs to be brought to the same place after completion of spreading of fabric for each of the ply. The example of this type of fabric lay is given in figure: 4/3.
2. Face to face:
This type of lay is suitable for wide and open fabric. The front side of the ply of the fabric is placed face to face in pairs and for making the lay, the fabric roll is required to be turn after completion of spreading of fabric for each ply. For making this type of fabric lay, special type of fabric spreading machine is required. The example of face to face fabric lay is given in figure: 4/4.
3. Zig Zag lay:
For making this type of lay, fabric spreading starts from one end as per the marker length and reach the other end and without cutting the fabric end, it is kept hold and the fabric spreading runs continuing. This way the zig zag lay is done. Zig zag lay is widely used in garments industry but for asymmetric fabrics this type of lay may create problem. The example of zig zag lay is given in figure: 4/5.
Types of Fabric Packages:
Fabric packages may be of various types, again the length, width, constructions etc. of fabric may be of various types within the packages. The types of fabrics packages are made mainly based on the characteristics of the fabrics. There is relation of the types of fabric packages with the methods of spreading of fabrics, specially all types of fabric packages cannot be used for all methods of fabric spreading. Discussion on the various fabric packages is given below:
a) Open fabric-rolled:
Most of the fabrics are supplied in open fabric-rolled and in full width package, winding on the hard paper tube of 7 to 8 cm diameter. The width of fabric roll may be from 75 cm to 3 meters and within the roll there may have one 100 meters to a few hundred meters of fabric in length. From this type of fabric rolls, fabric spreading may be done both by manually or by machine.
b) Tubular knitted fabric-rolled:
Most of the knitted fabric are made in tubular forms and they are winded in rolls and supplied. The width of tubular fabric is generally made as per the width of the shirts or dresses and it is widely used for making t-shirts and sport shirts. Spreading machine is used for spreading fabric from such type of fabric rolls.
c) Folded fabric-rolled:
Fabric is folded on 1 to 2 cm thick hard board just along the middle line of the width of fabric. Generally the retailers use such type of package. The full width of fabric is 70 to 80 cm. Fabric spreading cannot be done from such type of fabric roll by spreading machine. The use of such type of roll in garments factories are very much limited.
d) Folded fabric cutted:
In case of check fabric or knitted fabric, such type of fabric package is done so that there is no distortion in fabric. Fabric packages are made in full width of fabric and in 80 to 90 cm long well balanced folds and by wrapping the folds with the end of the fabric. Fabric spreading machine is required for making fabric lay by spreading fabric from such type of packages. Fabric spreading by hand from such packages is very much unsuitable.
e) Hanging fabric package:
This type of fabric package is used for special type of fabrics and of valuable fabrics. For example, velvet fabric. Within a special type of frame, the fabric package is made in hanging form taking the full width of the fabric and in the certain length of the frame so that the fabric pile is not distorted. Fabric spread is done manually from such package but it cannot be done by machine.
Among the packages which are used for garments factories, the greater length of the fabric package is better. Because, it takes comparatively less time to spread the fabric, the shade variation is minimum, fabric wastage is minimum, the use of marking paper due to shade variation becomes less, and the number of bundles also becomes minimum etc. But for the transportation of fabrics, special type of device is required.
Types of Splice:
At the beginning of discussion about the types of splice, it is essential to know its definition. During the spreading of fabrics, if any fabric defect is found, then along the width of the fabric, the defect is cut away. Then on the cut end of the fabric, fabric spreading restarts allowing required amount of overlapping at the new end of fabric. Generally the splice position is marked in the marker. This type of overlapping is called the splice. Splice is generally of two types:
- Straight line splice
- Interlock splice
a) Straight line splice:
This type of splice is marked by a straight line along the width of the spreading table. In the marker, the straight line merges with the patterns of both sides along the splice mark. Along the such splice line keeping about 2 inches of additional fabric on both sides, the spreading of fabric restarts. The example of straight line splice is explained through the figure: 4/6.
b) Interlock splice:
This type of splice is marked with two straight lines along the width which are again joined by cross lines. Such type of splice mark is marked by chalk on the spreading table at the beginning. It is meant by interlock splice mark that within this mark there are two types of pattern in an interlock condition along the width. Like previously, here also the fabric spreading starts keeping 2 inches of additional fabric on both sides of interlock splice marking. Interlock splice is explained through the fig – 4/7.
Conclusion
Effective fabric spreading depends on selecting the right lay, suitable fabric packages, and proper splice techniques. Careful control of these elements improves cutting accuracy, reduces wastage, minimizes shade variation, and ensures smoother, more efficient garment production.
