What is Kantha? Key Aspects of Kantha of Bengal

What is Kantha?

Kantha is a centuries-old tradition form of embroidery and quilting craft that originates from Bangladesh and the eastern regions of India, particularly West Bengal, Odisha, and Tripura. Bengal is rich in textiles and various types of crafts, one of the most popular ones being the Kantha. Kantha of Bengal is one of the Indian sub-continent textiles that have reached global recognition in the current market, and its demand only keeps growing with the passing of every single day.

History and Origin of Kantha

There are various sources associated with the origin of Kantha embroidery. However, according to one of the sources, the origin of Kantha can be traced back to a period as long as the pre- Vedic era (earlier than 1500 BCE). The word Kantha originated from the Sanskrit term kontha. It has two meanings; rags and throat that reflecting its origins in recycling old cloth.

According to one of the ancient legends, the disciples of Lord Buddha used to stitch together patches of different clothes to cover themselves, and that is what led to the origin of Kantha. Kantha is a form of traditional quilting from Bengal. In the old days, women in every household in Bengal used to use old dhotis or saree to make quilts for newborn babies and also for other functional purposes. But now, Kanthas are a globally renowned embroidered textile, making it a proud possession for the elites. They are eco-friendly due to the use of natural dyes and the longevity of the products. In today’s world, it is a very famous designer fabric.

Types of Kanthas

The types of kanthas are classified into 7 different categories, based on their purpose or use.

1. Nakshi kantha: Nakshi kantha is a traditional sewing art. It is a part of Bengali culture. Nakshi Kantha which originated in Bangladesh and parts of West Bengal, are very popular even today. The term has been derived from the word naksha referring to the artistic patterns made on these kanthas. Nakshi kanthas are embroidered quilts with colorful and intricate designs embroidered all over the fabric. Dupattas and sarees of nakshi kantha work are not only in demand all over India and Bangladesh but also in the global market.

2. Lep kantha: Lep Kantha is a traditional quilt-making technique within the broader Kantha embroidery tradition, primarily used to create thick, layered textiles for warmth and comfort. They are rectangular in shape. These are wraps that are heavily padded from the inside to make warm quilts for winter. The embroidery designs made on them are simple but attractive.

3. Rumal kantha: These are small handkerchiefs or wipes, and have a central lotus motif with borders on all four sides.

4. Beton kantha: Beton kantha is square in shape, with elaborate borders and is used as coverings for books and other similar valuable items.

5. Durjani kantha: Durjani dantha are quilted wallets made out of rectangular pieces of the traditional kantha work.

6. Oaar kantha: These are pillow covers. They have simple designs with quite decorative and attractive borders.

7. Sujani kantha: These are used as blankets or spreads for different religious.

8. Arshilata kantha: They have wide, very colorful borders, and are used as covers for mirrors or toilet accessories.

Stitches Used in Kanthas

The main stitch used in Kantha is the running stitch. The backgrounds in Kantha are often filled all over by simple running stitches surrounding each pattern or design. The overall look is somewhat calm and harmonious to the eyes.

Although traditionally the running stitch was used in Kantha, over time, various other types of stitches also surfaced. While long and short-running stitches are used to fill the ground surface or inside the motifs in some cases, other stitches or phors are used to create different textures. Some of the common ones among these include the lohori or beki phor which gives a wavelike pattern, the chatai or pati phor giving a swirling design, the bakhiya or backstitch, the cross stitch, the herringbone, the dal phor or the stem stitch and the satin stitch. Kashmiri stitch is also often seen used to fill the insides of motifs while the stem stitches are generally used to outline the motifs. The border stitches used also contribute to the name of the type of Kantha in some cases, like the dhaner shish, pipre saree, khejur churi, motor dana, tabiz par, macch par, barfi, etc.

Motifs

The motifs and patterns are mostly drawn from nature and everyday life. Some of these motifs include fish, flowers, tigers, elephants, lotuses, the tree of life, paisleys (commonly known as kalka in Bengal’s Kanthas), leaves, snakes, rivers and villagers in their everyday life and chores.

Traditionally, Kanthas have a central circle, enclosing a multipetalled lotus, symbolising the universe. Astadal or eight-petalled lotus, and shatadal or hundred petalled lotuses are encompassed by mandalas. On four corners are either four kalkas or paisley motifs or the jibanbriksha commonly known as the tree of life.

Colours

Bright colours like red, yellow, blue and black have always been popular as motifs made with these colours on lighter backgrounds make the designs stand out, adding to the meaning and symbolic significance of the patterns. Black and white also stand for purity, passion and darkness and are commonly used while making fish and water patterns on Kantha.

Types of Borders

Kantha textiles are distinguished by their intricate borders, which vary by type and purpose. The Kanthas of Bengal seem to prefer floral borders over anything else. Below are the primary border styles associated with different kantha traditions:

1. Sankha motif: These comprise of conch shell motif.
2. Videshi chokh: Videshi chokh translates to the foreigner’s eye.

   

3. Shapla motif: Shaplas are a water-based plant found in the region, the motifs in this kind of border are derived from them.

   

4. Swastika symbols which are religious and highly auspicious in the state are also often seen on the borders of Bengal’s Kantha.
5. Paisa or the coin motif.

   

6. Macher kaanta; meaning the bone of a fish.

   

7. Sun, water and different types of birds are considered essentials for farming and hence a manifest for a good harvest. These are embroidered on borders.

   

Conclusion

Kantha embroidery is a centuries-old craft that evolved from the resourcefulness of rural Bengali women who stitched together layers of old cloth using simple running stitches to create beautiful, functional textiles. Kantha has been a form of self-expression through art and recycling of old products into new ones, for women in every household in Bengal. More and more designers have been working on kantha collections and quite often kanthas with some contemporary twists can be seen in fashion shows or sported by celebrities here, and abroad, on some occasions. The demand for kantha keeps increasing daily, making it one of the most important textiles from Bangladesh and India.

References

[1] Ajanta Nayak, Sobharani Lakra (2025). Conventional Textiles and Textile Crafts of India. CBS Publishers & Distributors Pvt Ltd

[2] Mahapatra, N. N. (2016). Sarees of India. Woodhead Publishing.

[3] Wellesley-Smith, C. (2015). Slow stitch: Mindful and Contemplative Textile Art. Batsford Books.

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