What is Knitting?
Knitting is one of the oldest and most popular methods of making fabric by interlooping yarn with the help of needles. The definition of knitting is the interlocking of loops to create a fabric, but the term knitting wasn’t used until about the 1400s, until then it was known as Cnyttan, which means to knot. Still, there are fabrics that were found in Egyptian tombs that suggest this method of producing a fabric could date back to the fourth century BC. Also, knitting was not a traditional craft for women but mainly men as they produced their nets for fishing.
The top of the loop is known as the crown and the two straight sections are the legs; the total length of the loop is known as the Stitch Length.
Similar to weaving, the fabric structure has a count that is the number of loops in the courses and wales per two square centimetres. A fabric with a high wale count will be rigid and stable in the width, but a fabric with a high count in the courses will be rigid and stable in the length. Fabrics that have a high count in both course and wale have a much better recovery rate after they have been stretched.
Fabrics with a lower count may be less rigid, have more stretch, and fit one’s body contours better, but they have a lower recovery rate.
Fabrics with a higher wale count shrink less in the width; fabrics with a higher course count shrink less in the length.
Knit Structures
There are two methods of producing a knitted fabric: weft and warp knitting. In weft knitting, a yarn forms loops across the width of the fabric. Traditionally, hand-knit products were made via weft knitting, but now they can also be produced on knitting machines.
Warp knitting features one or two yarns feeding a needle on a machine to form loops up the length of the fabric.
List of Knitting Equipment for Beginners
Traditionally, knitting was a hand craft that was produced on pairs of sharpened sticks, such as skewers and hair picks. Eventually, needles were developed which were made of wood, bamboo and bone. The Spanish were the first to produce steel needles for a closer, even fabric. Today, the majority of needles are either plastic or steel, but some wooden needles exist. The needles come in various diameters, which determine the size of the loop. Generally, thick yarn uses a large needle and fine yarn uses a small needle. On average, a two-ply yarn uses size 2 mm (14) needles, double knit uses 4 mm (8), and chunky uses 9 mm (00).
Equipment of Hand Knitting
Needles with a point at one end are the most commonly used type. They have a knob at the other end to prevent the stitches (loops) from falling off, and the point is tapered, which enables the knitter to pick up the stitch on the other needle easily.
Double point needles are the oldest type of needle. They often come in sets of four, and, because they have points on both ends, they can be used from either side. Often, they are used to produce circular fabrics e.g. socks and neck edges on jumpers. As they produce a narrower fabric, these needles are often short in length, measuring up to 20cm.
Circular needles are relatively modern. Two tapered ends are inserted into a flexible, plastic tube that measures anywhere between 20cm and 100cm to produce circular knitting. As the fabric grows in length, it is distributed evenly around the needles, which makes it easier for the knitter to hold the weight unlike straight needles, where the weight tends to be located on one side.
Cable needles are used to hold stitches at the front or back of the fabric while one knits a number of loops across and then knits the loops from the cable needle to form a twist or cable pattern. This type of needle can also be called a stitch holder, which can sometimes be straight, but care must be taken to avoid dropping stitches.
Row counters are put onto the end of one of the needles and turned manually at the end of a complete row, or course, of knitting. It is useful to keep count of the row number while carrying out pattern repeats or when increasing or decreasing.
Equipment of Machine Knitting
A basic weft knitting machine was invented by an Englishman, Reverend William Lee, in 1589 which consisted of eight needles (loops) per inch of knitting; he later developed a machine that had twenty needles per inch. However, he could not get a patent for the machines from Queen Elizabeth I because she considered the machines a threat to the hand-knitting industry. The machines were damaged by a group of hand knitters, so Lee fled to France with his brother where they developed and patented the knitting machines with the help of the French Huguenots. The first warp machine was introduced in 1768 and invented by an Englishman, Josiah Crane.
It had a single guide bar and was used to make a hosiery fabric from silk in blue and white zigzag stripes. Warp machines developed further during the 1950s to 1970s with higher speeds, more needles per inch (finer gauges), wider machine beds, more guide bars (up to seventy-eight) which could produce complex net structures, triaxial structures, 3D structures and fashioned (shaped) structures. The variety of machines combined with the development of yarns brought a wide variety of knitted textures and products to the market.
Knitting Machines
a) Domestic Machines
Domestic knitting machines are designed for home or small-scale use, suitable for hobbyists or small projects, and they are generally simpler and smaller.
b) Industrial Machines
Industrial knitting machines are built for high-volume, continuous production in factories, and are much faster, more durable, and capable of producing complex knitted fabrics with higher efficiency. Industrial knitting machines are two types; weft knitting machine and warp knitting machine.
Weft knitting machines have the yarn cones above or behind the machine, so the yarn feeds into the carriage. The carriage moves across the machine bed, selecting needles to pull them forward. As the needle moves forward, the latch opens and pushes the loop of the stitch behind the latch. A new thread is laid over the hook of the needle, and as the carriage continues across, it pushes the needle back. This closes the latch and forces the old loop over the new thread and off the hook of the needle to form a knitted stitch; this sits underneath the row of needles.
In warp knitting, the yarns are held above or behind the machines on cones or creels similar to those on looms. Each yarn passes through a guide bar down to a specific needle on a course as it knits a stitch. For the next row, the guide bar moves across, via chains and links at various heights, anywhere between one and four needles. After that, it knits that stitch and moves back to the original needle for the next row. This is repeated for the complete length of fabric.
Machine Needles
The three main types of machine needles are latch, spring-bearded and compound.
Latch needles are those most commonly used on weft knitting machines because they automatically close the latch as the yarn is pulled through to form the new loop. Plus, they can use a wide variety of yarns.
The spring-bearded needles are cheaper to make and can produce fine fabrics that are held down on the machine with a sinker while a presser closes the hook to form the loop. They are, however, limited in terms of the range of yarns and structures that can be produced.
The compound needles are small and feature a sliding closing element. They are used when speed and low fabric distortion are essential and used mainly on circular and warp knitting machines.
The needle count on knitting machines is an indication of how many needles are present every one-and-a-half inches. Thus, a 60-gauge knitting machine has 40 needles per inch.
Other Knitting Equipment and Tools
Various types of tools are designed to make knitting easier, aid in pattern management, and improve overall knitting experience especially for beginners. Along with above major knitting equipment many auxiliary tools are used in knitting operation. These are given below.
- Scissors: Small, sharp scissors are used to cut yarn neatly after finishing or changing colors.
- Tape Measure: Flexible ruler used to measure the length and width of the fabric to maintain correct size.
- Stitch Markers: Small rings or clips placed on the needle to mark specific points, such as increases, decreases, or pattern repeats.
- Yarn Needle (Tapestry Needle): A large-eyed blunt needle used to weave in loose yarn ends and sew knitted pieces together.
- Row Counter: A small device used to keep track of rows knitted (manual or digital versions).
- Crochet Hook: Useful for picking up dropped stitches or making small corrections in the fabric.
- Stitch Holders: Pin-like tools used to hold stitches temporarily when they are not being worked on.
- Blocking Mats and Pins: Used after finishing a project to shape and stretch the knitted fabric evenly.
- Yarn Winder and Swift: Tools that help wind yarn into neat balls or cakes, making it easier to knit without tangling.
Conclusion
Knitting is much more than just a craft; it is an ancient technique that creates durable, elastic fabrics with a comforting texture. Whether knitting by hand or using a machine, having the right tools at hand makes all the difference in producing beautiful knitted goods. Choosing the right knitting equipment is the first step toward enjoying a smooth and successful knitting journey.
