Knitting is one of the most common methods of fabric manufacturing which converts thread or yarn directly into fabric by intermeshing of loops of yarns. When one loop is drawn through another, loops are formed in horizontal or vertical direction. Knitting is classified on the basis of the direction of yarn path. There are two broad categories of knitting, viz. weft knitting and warp knitting. Among these, weft knitting is the oldest and most widely used method. It is especially popular because of its flexibility, comfort, and ability to produce different fabric structures. In this article I will discuss about weft knitting and various types of fabric produced by weft knitting.
What is Weft knitting?
Weft knitting is the process of fabric formation where loops are created horizontally from a single yarn, intermeshing course by course in either flat or circular form. If the yarns run in the width or crosswise direction with reference to the direction of fabric formation during knitting, then the process of knitting is called weft knitting. In weft knitting, one single yarn is used continuously to form courses or wales across a fabric and is fed to one or more needles at a time. Weft knitted fabric is familiar for their comfort and shape retention properties. Weft knitting is the technique you will be most familiar with, since this is the process used by hand knitters. Weft knitting machines can produce both flat and circular fabric. But most weft knitted fabrics are produced in tubular form, although many are also made as open-width yard goods. Till date, most of the fabrics we use in our daily life as apparel belong to weft knitting; and hence to knitting learners knitting means weft knitting if not otherwise mentioned. The apparels, either inner or outerwear, are the most demanding area of weft-knit fabric.
Above figure shows the ‘face’ side of a single weft-knit structure. The shaded series of loops are formed in a horizontal or weft direction. Hence the name weft knit structure.
The row of loops in horizontal direction is called ‘a course’ while the column of loops in vertical direction is called a ‘wale’. The ‘courses’ and ‘wales’ per unit space determine one of the specifications of a knitted fabric. Weft knitted fabric can be produced from a single end.
Weft knitting occurs when an individual yarn is taken across the row to produce interconnected loops (stitches). There are two main stitches in knitting: plain and purl, which are produced by hand with knitting needles or by knitting machines. Variations on these stitches create different structures, patterns and textures to the surface of the fabric such as rib, tuck or miss stitch; the latter is also known as float or slip stitch.
The miss stitch is created when one or more needles on a machine are deactivated which means the unused needles do not knit the yarn, so creating a float on the back of the fabric. It can be used in a variety of ways:
- Intarsia—to move an unused, colored yarn across the fabric
- A mock rib fabric
- Fabric that is looser with some elongated loops.
The tuck stitch offers a raised or loft appearance to the fabric, which usually has a soft handle. On a machine, the new yarn and the original loop remain on the needle for one or more rows before they are knitted creating an inverted V that forms an elongated wale across two or more courses.
Different Types of Fabrics Produced by Weft Knitting
Weft knitting can create a wide variety of fabrics depending on loop arrangement and machine setup. The most common types are:
Single-knit jersey fabric:
It can be created by hand or by a single-bed machine. On the front of the fabric, the loops show the legs only and can be seen as vertical herringbone-type wales, which tend to be smooth. This is called the technical face, plain or knit – whereas the back has interlocking crowns along the course that look knotty. The back surface is rough and called the technical back, purl or reverse. This type of fabric has low stretch in the width, and it is often used for T-shirts, jumpers and underwear. Adding a small per cent (about 2—5%) of elastane will improve elasticity, crease resistance, drape quality and shape retention. Both sides of the fabric can be used unless a specific finish or print is required. If the back is used, the fabric may be known as reverse jersey. Patterned fabrics can also be produced.
Interlock or Double-knit jersey:
It uses flat or circular, double-bed machines where two sets of needle beds are opposite each other and work alternately so requiring two courses to produce one row on both the front and back of the fabric. The fabric, therefore, has two smooth surfaces. Double-knit jersey fabrics have more stability than single-knit jerseys, and they are also compact, durable and capable of retaining their shape though they are not very elastic. They can be cut like woven fabrics and used for T-shirts, underwear, polo shirts, sportswear, skirts, jackets and leggings. The machines can also produce garment-shaped products. Examples of fabrics are Acrilan and pique.
Due to the angles of the needles, the loops don’t necessarily lay true vertical and may have some distortion. These fabrics can also incorporate patterns known as intarsia or jacquard, which are produced at high speed.
Rib fabric:
This is made on two sets of needles that are staggered so the alternate loops are knitted in opposite directions to form vertical lines on both sides of the fabric. The rib is classed by the number of loops in the vertical line on each side of the fabric e.g. 1×1, 2×2, 2×1 and 3×3. Rib stitching is used to produce the welts or cuffs on jumpers, cardigans and the neck edge on T-shirts, which are usually a 1×1 rib. (The rib structure gives greater stability and resilience to the edge of a weft knit fabric). Often, jumpers’ main pieces (front, back, sleeves) feature a wider rib count, e.g. 2×2, which gives a tighter fit of the product to the body. Of course, the complete fabric can be a rib, which is used often on underwear, waistcoats, sports socks etc.
Run-resist knit:
It is produced on circular knitting machines, and every other needle is missed to produce a miss, float or slip stitch. On the next row, that stitch is knitted. This weft knit construction is used for run-resist tights and stockings.
Jacquard fabric:
Technically it is more complex in construction because it is a patterned fabric with at least three colors incorporated into it which can be produced by hand or machine. The machine uses a jacquard-type device, which controls individual or small groups of needles to choose which ones will or will not knit the selected colors. Traditionally a punch card would have been used to determine the needle selection but now computer-aided design (C.A.D.) software programme produces the design, and the knitting machine is controlled by a computer (C.A.M.). The computer tells the machine which needles to select for each color on the face of the fabric, and the color not required by that needle floats at the back. Care must be taken when determining how many needles a color must float behind because they may snag during wear, which will distort the fabric. The fabric is not very elastic due to the floats, and using this technique is costly in terms of production because fashion trends are very changeable.
You may also like: What is Knit Fabric? Types, Characteristics and Uses
Intarsia fabric:
It is similar to jacquard in that a highly complex pattern is created by machine through CAD and CAM, but a mechanism is used on the machine to ensure that the yarns at the back of the fabric are knitted, which eliminates floats. Therefore, it can be used as a reversible fabric where patterns can be viewed on both sides although vary in color depending which is being carried to face or back; this fabric has more elasticity.
Uses of Weft Knitted Fabric
Weft knitting is widely used for producing stretchy, flexible, and comfortable fabrics, making it ideal for everyday apparel such as T-shirts, sportswear, sweaters, hosiery, and intimate wear.
- Apparel Fabrics: Commonly used for making T-shirts, sportswear, sweaters, underwear, socks, and casual wear due to its stretch and comfort.
- Fashion Garments: Popular in dresses, skirts, tops, and cardigans because of its drape and softness.
- Sportswear & Activewear: Ideal for leggings, tracksuits, and jerseys since it allows flexibility, breathability, and ease of movement.
Fig: Uses of weft knitted fabric in sportswear - Home Textiles: Used in making blankets, bed sheets, cushion covers, and upholstery fabrics.
- Technical Textiles: Applied in medical bandages, shoe uppers, automotive fabrics, and protective clothing.
- Hosiery & Accessories: Used in gloves, scarves, hats, and stockings because of its elasticity.
- Industrial Applications: Utilized in making nets, filter fabrics, and insulation materials.
Advantages of Weft Knitting
- Fabrics are soft, comfortable, and breathable.
- Easy to produce a wide variety of structures.
- Good elasticity makes them ideal for body-fitting garments.
- Lower production cost compared to woven fabrics.
Limitations of Weft Knitting
- Less dimensionally stable compared to woven fabrics.
- Loops may ladder easily if a yarn breaks.
- Less durable for heavy-duty uses.
Conclusion
Weft knitting is a versatile and widely used fabric making technique that produces different types of fabrics suited for various clothing needs. It is widely used in manufacturing clothing and home textiles. It produces fabrics like plain jersey, rib, interlock, purl, and jacquard, each with unique properties and end uses. Due to its stretch, comfort, and versatility, weft-knitted fabrics dominate the casual and sportswear markets. Understanding weft knitting is essential for textile and fashion students because of its central role in modern fabric manufacturing.
References
[1] Ashford, B. (2016). Fibers to Fabrics.
[2] Nawab, Y., & Shaker, K. (2023). Textile Engineering: An Introduction. Walter de Gruyter GmbH & Co KG.
[3] Sinclair, R. (2014). Textiles and fashion: Materials, Design and Technology. Woodhead Pub Limited.
[4] Ray, S. C. (2012). Fundamentals and advances in knitting technology. In Woodhead Publishing Limited eBooks. https://doi.org/10.1533/9780857095558
