Classification of Textile Fibres - Textile Engineering

Definition of Textile Fibre:
A textile fibre is a strand of material that is used to make textiles. Textile fibres are the basic raw materials used to produce textiles. They are long, thin strands that can be spun or extruded into yarns or threads and then woven, knitted, or pressed into fabrics. Textile fibres can be natural or synthetic, and each type of fibre has unique properties that determine its suitability for different types of textiles. In this article I will discuss classification of textile fibres.

Classification of Textile Fibres:
Textile fibres classification means to the categorization of fibres based on their origin, chemical composition, and physical properties. The classification of textile fibres can be done in a number of ways.

Textile fibres can be classified into two main categories: natural fibres and synthetic fibres.

Natural fibres:
Natural fibres are fibres that are obtained from plants, animals, and minerals. Examples of natural fibres include cotton, wool, silk, flax, hemp, jute, and ramie. These fibres are used to make a wide range of products, including textiles, paper, and building materials. They are also used in the production of bioplastics and biocomposites. Natural fibres are renewable, biodegradable and are considered as an eco-friendly alternative to synthetic fibres.

Natural fibres can be classified into several categories based on their origin and properties. Some common classifications of natural fibers include:

Plant fibres: These fibres are obtained from plants, such as cotton, linen, hemp, and jute.
Animal fibres: These fibres are obtained from animals, such as wool, silk, cashmere, and alpaca.
Cellulosic fibres: These fibres are derived from plant cell walls, such as cotton, linen, and hemp.
Protein fibres: These fibres are derived from animal hair or secretions, such as wool, silk, and cashmere.
Bast fibres: These fibres are obtained from the stem of certain plants, such as flax, hemp, and jute.
Leaf fibres: These fibres are obtained from leaves of certain plants, such as sisal and abaca.
Seed fibres: These fibres are obtained from seeds, such as cotton and kapok.

Some fibres may fit into more than one classification. For example, cotton is a plant fibre and a cellulosic fibre.

Man-made fibres:
Man-made fibers, also known as synthetic fibres are fibres that are artificially created from chemical compounds. These fibres are not naturally occurring and are typically manufactured from petroleum-based products. Examples of synthetic fibres include polyester, nylon, acrylic, and spandex. These fibres are often used to make a wide range of products, including clothing, upholstery, and industrial materials. Synthetic fibres are known for their durability, strength, and resistance to shrinking and wrinkling, which makes them popular for use in clothing and other textiles. They are also less expensive to produce than natural fibres, which makes them more cost-effective for many applications. However, they are not biodegradable and also require a significant amount of energy to produce which makes them environmentally unfriendly.

Synthetic fibres can be classified based on their chemical composition and manufacturing process. Some common classifications include:

Polymer fibres: These fibres are created by polymerization of synthetic monomers, such as polyester, nylon, and acrylic.
Glass fibres: These fibres are made from glass and are known for their high strength and low thermal expansion.
Carbon fibres: These fibres are made from carbon and are known for their high strength, low weight and thermal stability.
Metal fibres: These fibres are made from metal, such as stainless steel and are known for their high strength and thermal stability.
Aromatic polyamide fibres: These fibres are made from aromatic polyamides and are known for their high strength, thermal stability, and chemical resistance.
Viscose rayon fibres: These fibres are made from cellulose and are known for their softness, drapability and ability to absorb moisture.
Acetate fibres: These fibres are made from cellulose acetate and are known for their softness, drapability and luster.
Modal fibres: These fibres are made from beech tree pulp and are known for their softness, drapability and moisture-wicking properties.

Blended fibres:
There are also blended fibres. Blended fibres are fibres that are made by combining two or more different types of fibres together. The resulting blend can have properties that are different from those of the individual fibres. Blending fibres can be done to improve the performance of a fabric, to create new textures, or to reduce costs. Some common examples of blended fibres include cotton-polyester, wool-nylon, and silk-rayon. The blend ratio can vary depending on the desired properties, for example, a blend of polyester and cotton is used to make a fabric that is wrinkle-resistant and durable, but also soft and breathable. Blended fibres are a good compromise between natural and synthetic fibres, as they can take advantage of the positive characteristics of each fiber, while also reducing their negative characteristics.

Classification of textile fibre based on origin:
Textile fibres can be classified based on their origin. The main categories are:

Cellulosic fibres: These fibres are obtained from plants and are composed of cellulose. Examples include cotton, linen, ramie, hemp, and bamboo.
Protein fibres: These fibres are obtained from animals and are composed of protein. Examples include wool, silk, mohair, and alpaca.
Synthetic fibres: These fibres are man-made and are composed of synthetic materials. Examples include polyester, nylon, acrylic, and polypropylene.
Mineral fibres: These fibres are obtained from rocks and minerals. Examples include glass and asbestos.

In addition, fibres can also be classified by their physical and chemical properties, such as staple fibres, filament fibres, and cellulosic fibres.

Staple fibres are short fibres that are typically spun into yarns, while filament fibres are long, continuous fibres that can be made into fabrics without spinning. Cellulosic fibres are fibres derived from plants, such as cotton, linen, and hemp.

Regenerated cellulose fibres:
Regenerated cellulose fibres, also known as viscose fibres, are a type of man-made or semi-synthetic fibres that are derived from cellulose, which is a naturally-occurring polymer found in plants. These fibres can be classified into a few different categories based on the manufacturing process and properties.

Viscose rayon fibres: These fibres are made by dissolving wood pulp or cotton linters in a solution of sodium hydroxide and carbon disulfide, and then extruding the solution through a spinneret to form fibres. They are known for their softness, drapability, and ability to absorb moisture.
Cuprammonium rayon fibres: These fibres are made by dissolving wood pulp or cotton linters in a solution of copper salts and ammonium hydroxide, and then extruding the solution through a spinneret to form fibres. They are known for their high strength and resistance to shrinking and wrinkling.
Modal fibres: These fibres are made by dissolving beech tree pulp in a solution of sodium hydroxide and carbon disulfide, and then extruding the solution through a spinneret to form fibres. They are known for their softness, drapability, and moisture-wicking properties.
Lyocell fibres: These fibres are made by dissolving wood pulp in a solution of amine oxide, and then extruding the solution through a spinneret to form fibres. They are known for their high strength, excellent drapability, and moisture-wicking properties.

These fibres are considered semi-synthetic fibres because they are derived from natural raw materials but are chemically processed to create the fibres.

Organic fibres:
Organic fibres refer to fibres that are grown and processed using methods that do not involve synthetic chemicals, pesticides, or genetically modified organisms (GMOs). These fibres are grown and processed according to strict guidelines and standards set by organizations such as the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) and the Organic Materials Review Institute (OMRI).

Some common types of organic fibres include:

Organic cotton: Organic cotton is grown without the use of synthetic pesticides or fertilizers. It is considered a sustainable and eco-friendly alternative to conventional cotton.
Organic wool: This is wool that is obtained from sheep that are raised according to organic standards, which prohibit the use of synthetic chemicals and pesticides.
Organic linen: This is linen that is grown without the use of synthetic pesticides or fertilizers.
Organic hemp: This is hemp that is grown without the use of synthetic pesticides or fertilizers.
Organic silk: This is silk that is obtained from silkworms that are raised without the use of synthetic pesticides or antibiotics.

Organic fibres are considered environmentally friendly because they are grown without the use of synthetic chemicals and pesticides, which can have negative impacts on the environment and human health. They also promote sustainable agriculture and are often grown using traditional farming methods.

Inorganic fibres:
Inorganic fibres are fibres that are not derived from living organisms and are not biodegradable. They are typically created by chemical or physical processes, and do not come from natural sources like plants or animals.

Some examples of inorganic fibres include:

Glass fibres: These fibres are made from silica, which is melted and then extruded through small holes to form fibres. They are known for their high strength and low thermal expansion.
Carbon fibres: These fibres are made from carbon and are known for their high strength, low weight, and thermal stability. They are used in aerospace, automotive, and other high-performance applications.
Metal fibres: These fibres are made from metal, such as stainless steel, and are known for their high strength and thermal stability. They are used in industrial and technical applications.
Ceramic fibres: These fibres are made from ceramic materials such as alumina and silicon carbide. They are known for their high strength, thermal stability, and chemical resistance.

Importance of Fibre Classification:
Textile fibre classification plays a critical role in the textile industry and helps to ensure that textile products meet the desired performance, safety, and environmental standards.

Fibre classification is important for several reasons:

1. Product Development: Knowing the properties and characteristics of different fibres helps textile manufacturers and designers to choose the appropriate fibre for a specific product or application. This can help ensure that the final product meets the desired performance, aesthetic, and cost criteria.

2. Quality Control: Fibre classification can be used to identify and control the quality of textile products. For example, if a product is labeled as being made of 100% cotton, a fibre classification test can be used to confirm that it is indeed made of cotton and not a blend of cotton and other fibres.

3. Environmental and Health Considerations: Fibre classification can help consumers and manufacturers make informed choices about the environmental and health impact of textile products. For example, organic fibres are grown and processed without the use of synthetic chemicals, pesticides, or GMOs, which can be harmful to the environment and human health.

4. Legal Compliance: Fibre classification can be used to ensure that textile products comply with legal regulations, such as labeling requirements and trade restrictions.

5. Recycling and Repurposing: Fibre classification can be used to identify and sort textile waste for recycling and repurposing. For example, natural fibres like cotton and wool can be recycled into new textile products, while synthetic fibres like polyester are typically not recyclable.

References:

Principles of Spinning: Fibres and Blow Room Cotton Processing in Spinning by Ashok R. Khare
Textile Engineering – An Introduction Edited by Yasir Nawab
Fibres to Fabrics by Bev Ashford
Textile Engineering By Roxanna Cody
Textile Chemistry By Thomas Bechtold and Tung Pham
Textile Technology: An Introduction, Second Edition by Thomas Gries, Dieter Veit, and Burkhard Wulfhorst

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