Fabric Cutting Process
Fabric cutting is the process of separating a spread into garment components as a replica of pattern pieces on a marker. It also involves transferring marks and notches from the marker to garment components to facilitate sewing. Fabric cutting process is a crucial step in garment manufacturing, as it involves transforming fabric into individual pieces that are essential for creating garments. The cutting process is frequently done in two stages: rough cutting and the final accurate cutting.
Objectives of Cutting
The main purpose of cutting is to separate fabric plies as replicas of the patterns in the marker plan. This ensures that the garment pieces conform to the required design and shape. In attaining this objective, certain requirements must be fulfilled.
1. Accuracy of Cut
The garment components have to be cut accurately and precisely as per the shape of the pattern to facilitate assembling process and for better fitting of garments. The effortlessness in achieving this accuracy is based on the cutting method engaged and on the marker.
2. Clean Edges
The fabric edges after cutting should not show fraying or snagging. These defects are due to an imperfectly sharpened knife, which could result in heat generation due to friction with fabric which leads to fabric damage. The heat generation during cutting with knives could be reduced by means of using sharpened knife blades, serrated or wavy edge knife, utilisation of anti-fusion paper between fabric, spraying of lubricant over the blades and reducing the lay height and blade.
3. Support of the Lay
The cutting method should provide the support for the fabric in addition to allow the blade to pierce the lowest ply of a spread and separate all the plies.
4. Consistent Cutting
Based on the method of cutting employed, the lay height will vary. To get a consistent quality of cutting, the lay height should be as low as possible without affecting the production planning and quality of cutting.
These objectives collectively prepare the cut pieces for subsequent processes like sewing while maintaining high standards of accuracy and quality.
You may also like: Cut Order Planning in Garment Manufacturing
Preparation for Cutting
After the laying process has been completed, the spreader has to recount the numbers of plies as in the cutting ticket. Then the following additional steps have to done prior to cutting.
1. Moving the Spreading Machine Aside
The spreading operator will place the spreading machine aside and remove catchers if they were used. The spreading machine must be placed back far enough from the lay to permit the cutter to work.
2. Facilitating Shrinkage of the Lay
If the lay is knitted fabric, then the lay should be cut into sections and left on the spreading table overnight to relax. These sections are cut at natural splice sections in the lay. The cutter would cut between the components through the fabric width to release the tension in the plies nearby the table.
3. Rechecking the Marker
After the spreading process is completed, the marker is kept on top of the spread. The beginning line in the marker is aligned at the starting point of the spread. The spreader has to ensure that the length and width of the spread matches with the length and width of the marker.
4. Fastening the Marker to the Spread
The methods for fastening the marker to the lay of fabric are given below.
- Cloth weights: Cloth weights made of metal about 2–10 lb can be used to hold the marker down on the lay.
- Lay tacks (sharp staples): In this method a lay tacker, similar to a stapler, is utilized to hold the marker by pressing them with the top layer of fabric to keep the marker in place and stabilise the spread.
- Straight T-pins: Straight T-pins of 1 ½″ to 3″ long are used on softer woven fabrics such as wools and wool blends, and terry cloth.
- Light spray adhesive: In this method, the bottom portion of the marker is covered with a rubber type adhesive to hold the marker to the top layer of the fabric and it can be easily separated after cutting.
Steps in the Fabric Cutting Process
Fabric cutting process in garment manufacturing involves several important steps to ensure accuracy and efficiency. Typically follows these steps during fabric cutting operation:
- Design and Pattern Making: Patterns are created to represent garment components based on design specifications
- Fabric Selection: Choosing appropriate fabrics based on texture, thickness, and stretchability
- Laying and Spreading: Fabric is laid flat on tables to ensure alignment and wrinkle-free layers. Multiple layers may be spread for bulk cutting
- Marker Making: Markers (guides) are created using CAD software or manually, optimizing fabric usage while minimizing waste
- Cutting: The actual cutting is performed using manual tools or automated machines based on the project requirements
- Quality Check: Each cut piece is inspected for accuracy and defects before proceeding to sorting
- Sorting and Numbering: Cut pieces are organized according to their roles in garment assembly
- Preparation for Sewing: If necessary, additional processes like fusing or embroidery are performed before sending the pieces to sewing sections
Fabric Cutting Methods:
There are several methods used in fabric cutting, depending on the type of fabric, production volume, and precision required. Typically the cutting may be performed manually or automated way. Each offering distinct advantages depending on the production scale, fabric type, and desired precision.
a) The manual cutting process
During manual cutting, components are cut in several cutting steps. The spread is first divided into smaller parts. If there are small and complex components, components which later will have to be fused with interlinings or components with intricate fabric patterns, these are firstly cut roughly around the edges. Later, after additional treatment, fine cutting is undertaken to ensure an accurate final shape. Large and simple shape components may be cut without initial rough cutting.
Different cutting machines are used to perform manual cutting. Movable straight and round-knife cutting machines are used to divide a spread in smaller parts and to cut large and simple shape components. A static band-knife machine is used to cut small and complicated components. The displacement of fabric plies in the spread is the main problem in manual cutting. As a result, the precision of cut components can be much lower than when using automated cutting.
b) The automated cutting process
Automated cutting is performed using a special automated cutting system. The cutting device moves and cuts a single-fabric ply or previously prepared fabric spread in accordance with a placement of pattern pieces in the marker. Different kinds of knives, laser, water jet, or ultrasound can be used as a cutting tool for processing textiles. A cutting operator sets up cutting parameters and monitors cutting process. Displacement of fabric plies in a spread is eliminated as the spread is compressed and held in position by a special vacuum system. A laser beam as a cutting tool is used not only for cutting but also for engraving and marking of textiles. Specialized software and tools are used to process fabrics with intricate patterns and digitally printed fabrics in semiautomated or fully automated way. Most often, they are cut by automated single-ply cutters.
The precision of cut components and productivity compared with manual cutting is very high. Automated cutting systems are used in large production enterprises where the volume of production justifies the very high productivity of the automated cutting process, cost of the equipment, and its maintenance.
Conclusion
Fabric cutting is a critical and decisive operation in garment manufacturing, as it directly impacts the quality, precision, and efficiency of the production process. From fabric inspection to bundling, each step must be carried out with precision to minimize errors and fabric wastage. A well-executed cutting process not only ensures high-quality garments but also contributes significantly to overall production success.
References
[1] Karthik, T., Ganesan, P., & Gopalakrishnan, D. (2016). Apparel Manufacturing Technology. In CRC Press eBooks. https://doi.org/10.1201/9781315367507
[2] Vilumsone-Nemes, I. (2018). Industrial cutting of textile materials. Woodhead Publishing.
[3] Garment Manufacturing Technology. (2015). In Elsevier eBooks. https://doi.org/10.1016/c2013-0-16494-x
[4] Textile and Clothing Design Technology. (2017). In CRC Press eBooks. https://doi.org/10.1201/9781315156163
