What is Operation Breakdown in Garment Industry?
Breakdown means writing down all the parts and all the processes or operations one after another to complete the garment and type of machines to each and every process. Actually, operation breakdown is a sequential list of all the operations involved in assembling a garment, component or style. It helps the garment industry in planning the number of assembly lines required to produce the particular number of units in the required time and also helps in maintaining proper style distributions for each assembly line and machine in order to reach the deadlines while earning profits. The garment operation bulletin is also called as operation breakdown. An operation bulletin includes more information than the operation breakdown.
A jacket is a type of outerwear garment worn over other clothing to provide additional protection from the elements, especially cold weather. But in modern fashion world it is also used as a fancy product. A jacket is not an easy style to produce in the sewing line. It has lots of complex processes. Here I describe the operation breakdown of the Jacket with SMV and machine name.
Operation Breakdown and SMV of a Jacket:
SI. No. | Operation | SMV | Machine Type |
Cuff preparation | |||
1 | Inner mark for run | 03 | Manual |
2 | Mark for run | 03 | Manual |
3 | Run stitch with lining | 0.7 | SNLS |
4 | Trim and Turn | 0.45 | Manual |
5 | Edge stitch | 0.65 | SNLS |
6 | Topstitch | 0.6 | SNLS |
Sleeve preparation | |||
7 | Sleeve panel attach | 02 | SNLS |
8 | Sleeve panel top | 0.75 | DNLS |
9 | Inner sleeve decostitch | 1.6 | SNLS |
10 | Inner sleeve with lining ready stitch | 1 | SNLS |
Front top welt pocket | |||
11 | Bone ready with lining | 0.25 | SNLS |
12 | Welt pocket mark | 0.3 | Manual |
13 | Bone dummy stitch | 0.3 | SNLS |
14 | Bone ready | 0.3 | SNLS |
15 | Bone attach | 0.35 | SNLS |
16 | Inside patch mark | 0.3 | SNLS |
17 | Inside patch attachment | 0.5 | SNLS |
18 | Welt pocket attach | 0.3 | SNEC |
19 | Trim, notch and turn | 0.45 | SNEC |
20 | Tacking | 0.25 | SNLS |
21 | Welt edge stitch | 0.3 | SNLS |
22 | Pocket bag close | 05 | SNLS |
23 | Welt finish | 0.3 | SNLS |
24 | Welt pocket fold stitch | 0.4 | SNLS |
25 | Welt pocket bartack 2 | 0.4 | Bartack |
26 | Inspection and pairing | 0.4 | Manual |
Front inner welt pocket | |||
27 | Bone ready with lining | 0.25 | SNLS |
28 | Welt pocket mark | 0.3 | Manual |
29 | Bone dummy stitch | 0.3 | SNLS |
30 | Bone ready | 0.3 | SNLS |
31 | Bone attach | 0.35 | SNLS |
32 | Inside patch mark | 0.3 | SNLS |
33 | Inside patch attachment | 0.5 | SNLS |
34 | Welt pocket attach | 0.3 | SNEC |
35 | Trim, notch and turn | 0.45 | SNEC |
36 | Tacking | 0.25 | SNLS |
37 | Welt edge stitch | 0.3 | SNLS |
38 | Pocket bag close | as | SNLS |
39 | Welt finish | 0.3 | SNLS |
40 | Welt pocket fold stitch | 0.4 | SNLS |
41 | Welt pocket bartack 2 | 0.4 | Bartack |
42 | Inspection and pairing | 0.4 | Manual |
Front piping pocket preparation 2 | |||
43 | Pocket pleat making and tacking | 0.5 | SNLS |
44 | Pocket pleat iron | 0.4 | SNLS |
45 | Piping ready | 0.35 | SNLS |
46 | Pocket hem | 0.6 | SNLS |
47 | Pocket mark for piping | 0.35 | Manual |
48 | Pocket piping no set | 0.4 | SNLS |
49 | Piping attachment | 3 | SNLS |
50 | Pocket inner pcs attach | 4 | SNLS |
51 | Pocket o13 | OA | 013 |
52 | Trim and turn | a4 | SNEC |
53 | Pocket side edge stitch mark | 0.3 | Manual |
54 | Pocket side edge stitch sew | a6 | SNLS |
55 | Pocket topstitch | 2 | SNLS |
56 | Mark for pocket attach | 0.35 | SNLS |
57 | Pocket attach | 2 | SNLS |
58 | Flap mark | 0.35 | Manual |
59 | Piping ready | 0.35 | SNLS |
60 | Flap mark for piping | 0.5 | Manual |
61 | Piping no set | a4 | SNLS |
62 | Piping attach with lining | 2 | SNLS |
63 | Ready trim | 0.25 | SNEC |
64 | Inner flap pc attach | 2.4 | SNLS |
65 | Trim and turn | 0.45 | SNEC |
66 | Flap edge stitch | 1.5 | SNLS |
67 | Flap top stitch | 1.2 | SNLS |
68 | Mark for attach | 0.35 | Manual |
69 | Flap attach | as | SNLS |
70 | Flap edge and top stitch | 0.65 | SNLS |
71 | Bartack pocket 6, flap 4 | a8 | Bartack |
72 | Inspection and pairing | OA | Manual |
Front facing preparation (overlap panel) | |||
73 | Front facing lining attach | 1.2 | SNLS |
74 | Facing pcs joint 2 | 0.4 | SNLS |
75 | Inner facing pa joint 2 | 0.4 | SNLS |
76 | Rib mark and trim | 0.45 | SNLS |
77 | Rib ready | 045 | SNLS |
78 | Rib attach at neck | as | SNLS |
79 | Rib finish at neck | 045 | SNLS |
80 | Inner rib attach at top facing | OA | SNLS |
81 | Top rib attach at inner facing | OA | SNLS |
82 | Rib tacking at joint | a4 | SNLS |
83 | Facing patch iron | as | SNLS |
84 | Facing patch mark | 0.3 | SNLS |
85 | Facing patch dummy stitch | 0.4 | SNLS |
86 | Facing neck stay stitch | 1.2 | SNLS |
87 | Facing bottom run stitch 2 | as | SNLS |
88 | Notch and turn the bottom 2 | 0.4 | Manual |
89 | Zipper attach 2 | 0.8 | SNLS |
90 | Zipper finish 2 | 1 | SNLS |
91 | Facing top stitch 2 | 1.2 | SNLS |
92 | Facing stay stitch 2 | as | SNLS |
Front facing panel and inner body assembly attach | |||
93 | Mark for attach | 0.5 | Manual |
94 | Facing no set | 0.4 | Manual |
95 | Facing panel to inner body attach | 2 | SNLS |
96 | Inner facing lining attach | 1.2 | SNLS |
97 | Inner facing attach 2 | 1 | SNLS |
98 | Inner facing and facing panel top stitch | 1.5 | DNLS |
Back | |||
99 | Back panel attach | 0.7 | SNLS |
100 | Back panel top | 0.75 | DNLS |
101 | Back yoke attach | as | SNLS |
102 | Back yoke top | 0.45 | DNLS |
103 | Inner back with lining ready stitch | 0.6 | SNLS |
104 | Iron and trim | 0.3 | Manual |
105 | Front and back pairing | 0.4 | Manual |
Top assembly ready | |||
106 | Shoulder joint | a6 | SNLS |
107 | Shoulder topstitch | 0.5 | DNLS |
108 | Patch iron | 0.8 | Iron |
109 | Patch ready mark | 0.6 | Manual |
110 | Patch mark for attach | 0.3 | Manual |
111 | Patch attach | a8 | SNLS |
112 | Patch deco stitch | 1.5 | SNLS |
113 | Sleeve no setting | 0.4 | Manual |
114 | Sleeve dummy stitch | 0.45 | SNLS |
115 | Sleeve attaching | 0.85 | SNLS |
116 | Top stitch at sleeve | am | DNLS |
117 | Side seam | 0.65 | SNLS |
118 | Inspection | a4 | Manual |
119 | Collar lining attach | as | SNLS |
120 | Collar mark for deco stitch | 0.3 | Manual |
121 | Collar deco stitch DN | 0.35 | DNLS |
122 | Collar deco stitch SN | as | SNLS |
123 | Collar mark for run stitch | 0.3 | Manual |
124 | Collar no set | as | SNLS |
125 | Collar run stitch | 0.45 | SNLS |
126 | Turn and iron | 0.35 | Iron |
127 | Collar attach to body | 0.5 | SNLS |
128 | Collar closing at neck | 0.4 | SNLS |
129 | Bottom lining attach | 0.6 | SNLS |
130 | Bottom mark for run stitch | 0.35 | Manual |
131 | Bottom run stitch | 0.6 | SNLS |
132 | Turn and iron | 0.4 | Iron |
133 | Bottom patch no set | 0.4 | SNLS |
134 | Bottom attach to body | 0.5 | SNLS |
135 | Bottom top mark | 0.4 | SNLS |
136 | Bottom top do | 0.6 | SNLS |
137 | Zipper attach 2 | 0.8 | SNLS |
138 | Zip dosing tacking at top | 0.25 | SNLS |
139 | Cuff no set | 0.4 | Manual |
140 | Cuff attach | 1 | SNLS |
Inner lining assembly ready | |||
141 | Front and back pairing | 0.4 | Manual |
142 | Label attach | 0.5 | SNLS |
143 | Shoulder joint | 0.6 | SNLS |
144 | Sleeve no setting | 0.4 | Manual |
145 | Sleeve attaching | 0.85 | SNLS |
146 | Side seam | 0.7 | SNLS |
147 | Side seam OL3 | 0.6 | OL3 |
Both panels assembly | |||
148 | Assembly no set | 0.4 | Manual |
149 | Attaching mark | 0.35 | Manual |
150 | Top and lining neck attach at from | 0.6 | SNLS |
151 | Top and lining neck attach at back | 0.4 | SNLS |
152 | Top and lining bottom attach | 0.8 | SNLS |
153 | Top and lining left front attach | 0.6 | SNLS |
154 | Top and lining right front attach | 0.6 | SNLS |
155 | Cuff attach to lining assembly | 1 | SNLS |
156 | Tacking at armhole | 0.4 | SNLS |
157 | Garment turning | 0.5 | Manual |
158 | Inner lining assembly side seam close | 0.6 | SNLS |
159 | Inner welt pocket close | 0.5 | SNLS |
160 | Front zipper panel top stitch | 2 | SNLS |
161 | Bottom top stitch | 1 | DNLS |
162 | Bottom patch top stitch | 0.6 | DNLS |
163 | Bottom patch top bartack 4 | 0.35 | Bartadc |
Button hole and button | |||
164 | Button hole pocket 2, cuff 2 | 0.4 | Button hole |
165 | Button hole and button mark | 0.3 | Manual |
166 | Button pocket 2, cuff 2 | 0.45 | BTN |
167 | Button wrapping | 0.4 | SPL |
168 | Trimming and checking | 3 | Manual |
Here,
- SNLS: 1 Needle lock stitch;
- SNCS: 1 Needle chain stitch;
- SNEC: 1 Needle edge cutter;
- BS: Blind stitch;
- DNLS: 2 Needle lock stitch;
- DNCS: 2 Needle chain stitch;
- OL3: 3 thread over lock;
- OL4: 4 thread over lock;
- OL5: 5 thread over lock;
- APW: Auto pocket welting;
- BT: Bartack machine;
- BH: Button holing;
- BA: Button attach;
- CHK: Checking.
References:
- Apparel Manufacturing Technology by T. Karthik, P. Ganesan, and D. Gopalakrishnan
- Practice of Garments Merchandising and Management by Engr. Md. Faruk Hosen
- Industrial Engineering in Apparel Production By V. Ramesh Babu