Operation Breakdown and SMV of a Jacket

What is Operation Breakdown in Garment Industry?
Breakdown means writing down all the parts and all the processes or operations one after another to complete the garment and type of machines to each and every process. Actually, operation breakdown is a sequential list of all the operations involved in assembling a garment, component or style. It helps the garment industry in planning the number of assembly lines required to produce the particular number of units in the required time and also helps in maintaining proper style distributions for each assembly line and machine in order to reach the deadlines while earning profits. The garment operation bulletin is also called as operation breakdown. An operation bulletin includes more information than the operation breakdown.

A jacket is a type of outerwear garment worn over other clothing to provide additional protection from the elements, especially cold weather. But in modern fashion world it is also used as a fancy product. A jacket is not an easy style to produce in the sewing line. It has lots of complex processes. Here I describe the operation breakdown of the Jacket with SMV and machine name.

Operation Breakdown and SMV of a Jacket:

SI. No.	Operation	SMV	Machine Type
	Cuff preparation
1	Inner mark for run	03	Manual
2	Mark for run	03	Manual
3	Run stitch with lining	0.7	SNLS
4	Trim and Turn	0.45	Manual
5	Edge stitch	0.65	SNLS
6	Topstitch	0.6	SNLS
	Sleeve preparation
7	Sleeve panel attach	02	SNLS
8	Sleeve panel top	0.75	DNLS
9	Inner sleeve decostitch	1.6	SNLS
10	Inner sleeve with lining ready stitch	1	SNLS
	Front top welt pocket
11	Bone ready with lining	0.25	SNLS
12	Welt pocket mark	0.3	Manual
13	Bone dummy stitch	0.3	SNLS
14	Bone ready	0.3	SNLS
15	Bone attach	0.35	SNLS
16	Inside patch mark	0.3	SNLS
17	Inside patch attachment	0.5	SNLS
18	Welt pocket attach	0.3	SNEC
19	Trim, notch and turn	0.45	SNEC
20	Tacking	0.25	SNLS
21	Welt edge stitch	0.3	SNLS
22	Pocket bag close	05	SNLS
23	Welt finish	0.3	SNLS
24	Welt pocket fold stitch	0.4	SNLS
25	Welt pocket bartack 2	0.4	Bartack
26	Inspection and pairing	0.4	Manual
	Front inner welt pocket
27	Bone ready with lining	0.25	SNLS
28	Welt pocket mark	0.3	Manual
29	Bone dummy stitch	0.3	SNLS
30	Bone ready	0.3	SNLS
31	Bone attach	0.35	SNLS
32	Inside patch mark	0.3	SNLS
33	Inside patch attachment	0.5	SNLS
34	Welt pocket attach	0.3	SNEC
35	Trim, notch and turn	0.45	SNEC
36	Tacking	0.25	SNLS
37	Welt edge stitch	0.3	SNLS
38	Pocket bag close	as	SNLS
39	Welt finish	0.3	SNLS
40	Welt pocket fold stitch	0.4	SNLS
41	Welt pocket bartack 2	0.4	Bartack
42	Inspection and pairing	0.4	Manual
	Front piping pocket preparation 2
43	Pocket pleat making and tacking	0.5	SNLS
44	Pocket pleat iron	0.4	SNLS
45	Piping ready	0.35	SNLS
46	Pocket hem	0.6	SNLS
47	Pocket mark for piping	0.35	Manual
48	Pocket piping no set	0.4	SNLS
49	Piping attachment	3	SNLS
50	Pocket inner pcs attach	4	SNLS
51	Pocket o13	OA	013
52	Trim and turn	a4	SNEC
53	Pocket side edge stitch mark	0.3	Manual
54	Pocket side edge stitch sew	a6	SNLS
55	Pocket topstitch	2	SNLS
56	Mark for pocket attach	0.35	SNLS
57	Pocket attach	2	SNLS
58	Flap mark	0.35	Manual
59	Piping ready	0.35	SNLS
60	Flap mark for piping	0.5	Manual
61	Piping no set	a4	SNLS
62	Piping attach with lining	2	SNLS
63	Ready trim	0.25	SNEC
64	Inner flap pc attach	2.4	SNLS
65	Trim and turn	0.45	SNEC
66	Flap edge stitch	1.5	SNLS
67	Flap top stitch	1.2	SNLS
68	Mark for attach	0.35	Manual
69	Flap attach	as	SNLS
70	Flap edge and top stitch	0.65	SNLS
71	Bartack pocket 6, flap 4	a8	Bartack
72	Inspection and pairing	OA	Manual
	Front facing preparation (overlap panel)
73	Front facing lining attach	1.2	SNLS
74	Facing pcs joint 2	0.4	SNLS
75	Inner facing pa joint 2	0.4	SNLS
76	Rib mark and trim	0.45	SNLS
77	Rib ready	045	SNLS
78	Rib attach at neck	as	SNLS
79	Rib finish at neck	045	SNLS
80	Inner rib attach at top facing	OA	SNLS
81	Top rib attach at inner facing	OA	SNLS
82	Rib tacking at joint	a4	SNLS
83	Facing patch iron	as	SNLS
84	Facing patch mark	0.3	SNLS
85	Facing patch dummy stitch	0.4	SNLS
86	Facing neck stay stitch	1.2	SNLS
87	Facing bottom run stitch 2	as	SNLS
88	Notch and turn the bottom 2	0.4	Manual
89	Zipper attach 2	0.8	SNLS
90	Zipper finish 2	1	SNLS
91	Facing top stitch 2	1.2	SNLS
92	Facing stay stitch 2	as	SNLS
	Front facing panel and inner body assembly attach
93	Mark for attach	0.5	Manual
94	Facing no set	0.4	Manual
95	Facing panel to inner body attach	2	SNLS
96	Inner facing lining attach	1.2	SNLS
97	Inner facing attach 2	1	SNLS
98	Inner facing and facing panel top stitch	1.5	DNLS
	Back
99	Back panel attach	0.7	SNLS
100	Back panel top	0.75	DNLS
101	Back yoke attach	as	SNLS
102	Back yoke top	0.45	DNLS
103	Inner back with lining ready stitch	0.6	SNLS
104	Iron and trim	0.3	Manual
105	Front and back pairing	0.4	Manual
	Top assembly ready
106	Shoulder joint	a6	SNLS
107	Shoulder topstitch	0.5	DNLS
108	Patch iron	0.8	Iron
109	Patch ready mark	0.6	Manual
110	Patch mark for attach	0.3	Manual
111	Patch attach	a8	SNLS
112	Patch deco stitch	1.5	SNLS
113	Sleeve no setting	0.4	Manual
114	Sleeve dummy stitch	0.45	SNLS
115	Sleeve attaching	0.85	SNLS
116	Top stitch at sleeve	am	DNLS
117	Side seam	0.65	SNLS
118	Inspection	a4	Manual
119	Collar lining attach	as	SNLS
120	Collar mark for deco stitch	0.3	Manual
121	Collar deco stitch DN	0.35	DNLS
122	Collar deco stitch SN	as	SNLS
123	Collar mark for run stitch	0.3	Manual
124	Collar no set	as	SNLS
125	Collar run stitch	0.45	SNLS
126	Turn and iron	0.35	Iron
127	Collar attach to body	0.5	SNLS
128	Collar closing at neck	0.4	SNLS
129	Bottom lining attach	0.6	SNLS
130	Bottom mark for run stitch	0.35	Manual
131	Bottom run stitch	0.6	SNLS
132	Turn and iron	0.4	Iron
133	Bottom patch no set	0.4	SNLS
134	Bottom attach to body	0.5	SNLS
135	Bottom top mark	0.4	SNLS
136	Bottom top do	0.6	SNLS
137	Zipper attach 2	0.8	SNLS
138	Zip dosing tacking at top	0.25	SNLS
139	Cuff no set	0.4	Manual
140	Cuff attach	1	SNLS
	Inner lining assembly ready
141	Front and back pairing	0.4	Manual
142	Label attach	0.5	SNLS
143	Shoulder joint	0.6	SNLS
144	Sleeve no setting	0.4	Manual
145	Sleeve attaching	0.85	SNLS
146	Side seam	0.7	SNLS
147	Side seam OL3	0.6	OL3
	Both panels assembly
148	Assembly no set	0.4	Manual
149	Attaching mark	0.35	Manual
150	Top and lining neck attach at from	0.6	SNLS
151	Top and lining neck attach at back	0.4	SNLS
152	Top and lining bottom attach	0.8	SNLS
153	Top and lining left front attach	0.6	SNLS
154	Top and lining right front attach	0.6	SNLS
155	Cuff attach to lining assembly	1	SNLS
156	Tacking at armhole	0.4	SNLS
157	Garment turning	0.5	Manual
158	Inner lining assembly side seam close	0.6	SNLS
159	Inner welt pocket close	0.5	SNLS
160	Front zipper panel top stitch	2	SNLS
161	Bottom top stitch	1	DNLS
162	Bottom patch top stitch	0.6	DNLS
163	Bottom patch top bartack 4	0.35	Bartadc
	Button hole and button
164	Button hole pocket 2, cuff 2	0.4	Button hole
165	Button hole and button mark	0.3	Manual
166	Button pocket 2, cuff 2	0.45	BTN
167	Button wrapping	0.4	SPL
168	Trimming and checking	3	Manual

Here,

SNLS: 1 Needle lock stitch;
SNCS: 1 Needle chain stitch;
SNEC: 1 Needle edge cutter;
BS: Blind stitch;
DNLS: 2 Needle lock stitch;
DNCS: 2 Needle chain stitch;
OL3: 3 thread over lock;
OL4: 4 thread over lock;
OL5: 5 thread over lock;
APW: Auto pocket welting;
BT: Bartack machine;
BH: Button holing;
BA: Button attach;
CHK: Checking.

References:

Apparel Manufacturing Technology by T. Karthik, P. Ganesan, and D. Gopalakrishnan
Practice of Garments Merchandising and Management by Engr. Md. Faruk Hosen
Industrial Engineering in Apparel Production By V. Ramesh Babu

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