What is Yarn Count?
Yarn count is a numerical value that represents the fineness or coarseness of a yarn. It is essential for determining the thickness, weight, and quality of fabric. It is expressed in direct system and indirect system. Yarn count or yarn numbering system gives the ratio between the weight and length.
The weight of the original fiber and the length of yarn produced from the raw materials indicate the thickness of the yarn which is determined by the extent of the drawing process. Yarn is made from short fibers and the uniformity of the yarn depends on the uniform placement of fibers in its axis. This is not achieved fully. Its diameter varies in its cross section. Moreover measuring the yarn diameter is difficult due to its structure. Therefore, a linear density measurement is used to yarn count. The yarns are spun in ring frame with a specific count.
Different units of length and weight are used for different textile yarns. Sometimes even for the same kind of yarn, different units of length and weight are used in different yarn numbering system.
Types of Yarn Count System
The yarn count system is used to define the fineness or coarseness of a yarn. It is classified into two main types:
1. Direct system:
In the direct system, the weight per unit length is specified. So, in this system count is expressed as a weight by length unit. Tex and denier are examples of direct system of yarn numbering. Tex system is called as universal system of yarn numbering. The count is expressed as the weight of grams in 1000 meters of yarn in the case of Tex system which is directly known. So, if 1000 meters of yarn weighs 20 grams, it is called as 20 Tex yarn. The yarn count is 20 Tex.
In the direct system, the higher the yarn count number, the courser will be the yarn. For numbering filaments and fibers, another term is used: denier. Denier is defined as the weight in grams of 9000 meters of filament yarn. It is based upon the natural fiber of silk – one strand of silk measuring 9,000 m weighs 1 g. (A 10 denier yarn is much finer than a 40 denier yarn)
For example,
- Tex: Weight in grams of 1000 meters of yarn.
- Denier: Weight in grams of 9000 meters of yarn.
- Dtex: Weight in grams of 10,000 meters of yarn.
Direct count system are used for filament yarns like synthetic and silk.
2. Indirect system:
This is the traditional system that originated from England. In this system length per unit weight is specified. The number of hanks (840 yards) present in 1 pound of yarn is defined as the yarn number or yarn count. Suppose in a particular yarn if 100 hanks (8,4000 yards) weighs 1 pound, then the yarn count of that yarn will be 100s Ne. (“Ne” refers to English count.) It is an indirect system of yarn numbering as it is based on length by weight unit. Higher the number in direct system indicates coarser counts as it has higher diameter, lesser fineness and higher the number in indirect system indicates finer count as it has lesser diameter, more fineness.
In the indirect system, the higher the yarn number or count, the finer will be the yarn. For example, 40s Ne yarn will be finer than 20s Ne yarn.
Count Ne 1 – 20 = is a coarse yarn
Ne 21 – 60 = is a medium yarns.
Ne 60 and over = is a fine yarns.
In indirect system, the count is expressed as length by weight unit. English count denoted as Ne, French count (Nf), Metric count (Nm) are examples of indirect system of yarn numbering.
For example,
- Ne (English Cotton Count): Number of 840-yard hanks per pound.
- Nm (Metric Count): Number of 1000-meter hanks per kilogram.
- Worsted Count (WC): Number of 560-yard hanks per pound.
Indirect count system are used for spun yarns like cotton, wool, and linen.
From the above two examples, it can be found that 20 Tex is a coarser yarn, and 100 Ne is a finer yarn. The most common count system used for cotton counts is English count. However, it is possible to convert the count from one system to another system using conversion formulae. The conversion factor table is available for converting the yarn count from one count to another. The conversion factors will be provided in the example problems as and when required. An example is given below to understand how conversion can be done from one count to another.
Example: 1
Convert the indirect count, 100 Ne to Tex (direct) count.
Solution:
Conversion factor for converting Ne into Tex is 590.5
………………………590.5
So, Tex count = ————-
……………………….Ne
…..590.5
= ————
……100
= 5.905 Tex
Example: 2
Convert 20 Tex to Ne count.
Solution:
Conversion factor for converting Tex into Ne is 590.5
……………590.5
So, Ne = ————-
…………….Tex
….590.5
= ————
…..20
= 29.5 Ne
With these two examples, we can understand that 20Tex which is 29.5 Ne is coarser yarn and 5.95 Tex which is 100 Ne is finer in nature. Finer count yarn will have more length of yarn for a given weight than coarser count yarn and it is one of the reasons for finer count yarns to fetch higher prices in the market.
Yarn Count Conversion Chart
Yarn count conversion is essential for comparing different numbering systems used globally. Below is a general conversion chart for common yarn numbering systems.
Why Yarn Count Matters?
Fabric Quality:
- Fine yarns (e.g., Ne 80–100) create lightweight, soft fabrics (e.g., chiffon, voile).
- Coarse yarns (e.g., Ne 10–20) produce heavy, durable fabrics (e.g., denim, canvas).
Machine Compatibility:
Knitting/weaving machines require specific yarn counts to avoid breaks or defects.
Cost Efficiency:
Thicker yarns (low indirect counts) use less material per unit length, reducing costs.
Conclusion:
Yarn count is a fundamental metric in textiles that affects both the quality and cost of fabric products. The choice of yarn numbering system depends on the fiber type and the intended fabric properties. Understanding yarn count helps in fabric selection, quality control, and achieving the desired fabric performance.
References:
[1] Rathinamoorthy, R., Surjit, R., & Vardhini, K. J. V. (2024). Handbook of Textile and Apparel Costing. https://doi.org/10.1201/9781032629896
[2] Thangamani, K., & Sundaresan, S. (2022). Fabric Manufacturing Technology: Weaving and Knitting. CRC Press.
[3] Chattopadhyay, R., Sinha, S. K., & Regar, M. L. (2023b). Textile calculation: Fibre to Finished Garment. Elsevier.
[4] Ashford, B. (2016). Fibres to fabrics. AuthorHouse.
[5] Textile and Clothing Design Technology. (2017). In CRC Press eBooks. https://doi.org/10.1201/9781315156163
